Category Archives: Styles & Fashion

Marc Jacobs On How His Psychiatrist Helped Him Make the Dior Decision

By Justin Fenner

In a wide-ranging conversation with Fern Mallis on stage at 92nd Street Y this week, Marc Jacobs said he discussed not taking over for John Galliano in sessions with his psychiatrist.

“It was actually my psychiatrist who said, ‘How is this going to improve the quality of your life?’ and I said, ‘It’s not.’ I mean, two more shows – and after Galliano, what he has done – when am I going to live my life?” Jacobs asked.

The designer also talked about growing up in New York City, studying at Parsons, and being treated for substance abuse. A few highlights from the conversation below.

On going to college: “Every day was like a fashion parade. There was a little troop of us. It was me, a girl named Susan Martin, Chris Iles, and Tracy Reese. The four of us were inseparable. We were the overachievers. We would do five times what was required just because we really enjoyed it.”

On the critics: “There are very few, and I don’t mean this in a bitchy way, journalists who I respect. I don’t think a lot of them know what they’re looking at. . . I’m fine with constructive criticism but I’m not so good with stupidity. It’s one thing to say ‘I like or I don’t like’ but to misread or mislabel something or to be out of sorts because it was raining, or a late show or you were hungry. That just all feels not valid.”

On his sobriety: “I wouldn’t say I’m 100 percent sober. What I’m saying is perfection is not my deal. Yeah, maybe I have had a glass of wine or a couple of whiskeys. Maybe I’ve smoked a joint or something like that. Or other things, but I’m mostly sober.”

On what he tells aspiring designers: “What’s worked for me is not quitting, being more passionate about what I do and not giving up. And when I don’t believe in myself turning to other people who believe in me.”

Photo by Joyce Culver, courtesy of 92nd Street Y.

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Erin Fetherston's Supper Club, Vogue UK and Sandy, and Street Style at Pitti Uomo

By Robert Khederian

All the bits fit to print here, in our daily news roundup.

  • Erin Fetherston designed the waitress’s aprons for Butterfly, a restaurant that will open downstairs from her design studio this Spring. [Food & Wine]
  • Patrick Demarchelier shot Kati Nescher for the February cover of Vogue UK in the middle of Hurricane Sandy. [Vogue UK]
  • Street style at Pitti Uomo is all about Italian tailoring, Winter textures, and double monk-strap shoes. [GQ]
  • Kate Middleton’s official portrait, painted by Paul Emsley, is now on display at Britain’s National Portrait Gallery. [Racked]
  • In other art news, painter Tim Furzer has created minimalistic watercolors for Calvin Klein’s Madison Avenue flagship store windows. [Harper’s Bazaar]
  • Jan Heppe is Burberry’s new president of the Americas. [WWD]
  • L.K. Bennett selected Rosamund Pike as the face of its Spring 2013 campaign. [Telegraph]
  • Oscar nominations for best costume favored period dramas and fairy-tale films. [LA Times]

Source: GQ

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Fall in Love: the February 2013 Magazine Covers Are Here

By Justin Fenner

There’s a definite sense of romance in some of the February magazine covers that have been released so far. Love‘s black and white shots of Cara Delevingne and Edie Campbell, for example, are used for the magazine’s “Clean Issue,” while Vanity Fair‘s picture of Jennifer Lawrence biting a daisy is underpinned by a declaration that the actress is the “world’s most desirable woman.”

That celebration of youth and beauty will undoubtedly continue as stars like Lawrence and Anne Hathway (who covers February’s issue of Harper’s Bazaar UK) head down the many red carpets of awards season. But don’t count out the models: Constance Jablonski is adorned with purple and white flowers on the cover of Vogue China, and Anja Rubik‘s clean and simple cover of Elle UK is no less striking.

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Gemma Ward's Return, Anna Sui's Baggage, and Sketches of the Summit

By Robert Khederian

All the bits fit to print here, in our daily news roundup.

  • Andrew Allen and Georg Petschnigg used their app Paper by Fifty Three to sketch moments from WWD‘s CEO Summit, like Karl Lagerfeld’s Q&A with Bridget Foley. [WWD]
  • Will Gemma Ward return to modeling? [Perth Now]
  • Jason Wu won’t accept outside investors anytime soon: “I’ve always grown based on whatever I can afford,” Wu said. “I know what I’m spending. It’s my money. It’s kept me quite realistic in what I can do.” [Washington Post]
  • Anna Sui resurrected a floral pattern originally used in her Spring 2009 collection for her luggage collaboration with Tumi. [Teen Vogue]
  • This year’s Oscar nominees have been announced. [BuzzSugar]
  • Damien Hirst’s signature polka dots adorn the statuette he designed for the 2013 Brit Awards. [Vogue UK]
  • Daniel Vosovic’s target demographic is “the whiskey-drinking perfectionist.” [Fashionista]
  • Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2013 video captures the ideal Sicilian Summer holiday. [AnotherMag]

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Doo-Ri Chung Heads to Vince

By Justin Fenner

A little more than six months after designer Doo-Ri Chung left her eponymous New York label, she’s headed to Los Angeles to become the creative director of Vince. In her new role, Chung will be in charge of design, product development, and creative branding initiatives.

“I’ve long admired the [Vince] brand because of its loyal customer following and its modern design sensibility,” Chung said in a statement to WWD.

The announcement of her new job comes a day after Vince’s cofounders, Rea Laccone and Christopher LaPolice, said they were leaving the brand. Jill Granoff, CEO of Kellwood Group – the company that owns Vince, Rebecca Taylor, and David Meister, among other brands – is now also CEO of Vince.

Granoff wants to “accelerate the growth of Vince and unleash its potential as a global lifestyle brand,” and said Chung is the right designer to help do that. “She’s very well-known for her design and technical aesthetic. She has a modern design aesthetic and a real understanding of our customer.”

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Break Time: Chris Benz Is Skipping Fashion Week, and He's Not the Only One

By Justin Fenner

Chris Benz says he won’t show a collection at New York Fashion Week next month, and will use the extra time to focus on the development of his brand.

“We have received great feedback from the marketplace after just one season,” the designer told WWD. “I want ample time to implement all that we have learned.”

Benz introduced a contemporary jeans label, called CB Denim, at his Spring 2013 presentation in September. In November, he told The New York Times that he planned to bring his brand and its price point from the designer arena into the “upper contemporary” market. “We were working so hard but not reaching as many fans as we’d like,” he said.

But Benz isn’t the only designer skipping the Fall 2013 shows: Cacharel announced just last week that it will forgo its show during Paris Fashion Week. There’s also been some speculation that Holmes & Yang, the line designed by actor Katie Holmes and Jeanne Yang, won’t show in New York because it’s not listed on the official Fashion Week schedule

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Naomi Campbell: I'm "Never Gonna Get Away" From That Phone-Throwing Incident

By Justin Fenner

Despite championing charities the world over, Naomi Campbell says she’ll never quite escape her checkered past.

In an interview featured in the February issue of Elle, Campbell – referring specifically to the 2007 case in which she pleaded guilty to throwing a phone at her personal assistant – said, “I’m never gonna get away from it. It’s part of my history. I was remorseful and regretful. I’ve served. I did that time. And I never want to be in that position again.”

But starring in Oxygen’s new reality series The Face, which debuts next month, may help change how she’s viewed.

“The first time I saw her cry in an elimination I thought, ‘She’s in this,'” said Oxygen executive Rod Aissa. “The public will see the Naomi that her friends know. That doesn’t come across in a picture, but it does come across on television.”

Still, the pictures of Campbell in Elle are worth a look. A selection of them here in the gallery.

Photos courtesy of Elle

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Vittorio Missoni's Son Calls Plane Crash "Least Plausible Reason" For Father's Disappearance

By Justin Fenner

The Missoni family is holding fast to the hope that Vittorio Missoni‘s missing plane was hijacked, and Vittorio’s eldest son has called a crash implausible.

“My father will come back; we are waiting for him,” said Vittorio’s 28-year-old son Ottavio Missoni Jr. in an interview with the Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera. “I am not speaking with my head but with my heart. A plane cannot vanish in this way, on a short route, without leaving any trace . . . I remain convinced that the least plausible reason is that they crashed into the water. My uncle Luca, in Venezuela, has also confirmed that these planes are capable of sea landings in case of emergency.”

Luca Missoni, Vittorio’s brother and a trained pilot, is in Venezuela working with the search party that’s been trying to find Vittorio, his wife, Maurizia Castiglioni, their friend Guido Foresti, and Foresti’s wife, Elda Scalvenzi. They were on a small twin-engine plane traveling from Los Roques to Caracas on Saturday morning, but the plane disappeared shortly after taking off. Angela Missoni, Vittorio’s sister and the brand’s creative director, said earlier this week that she hopes the traveling party was kidnapped. “It’s better to be kidnapped than at the bottom of the sea,” she said.

In the meantime, it’s said the Missoni brand will carry on with business as usual. An unnamed source <a target=_blank href="
http://www.nypost.com/p/pagesix/mystery_of_the_missoni_plane_ZNUx0xRpLDozBFMNt5592O” target=”_blank”>told Page Six that the house plans to show its men’s collection in Milan next week. However, there’s no official plan to replace Vittorio if he and the others aren’t found.

“There is no succession plan in place,” the source said. “Nobody expected this to happen.”

From left, Marco Missoni, his father, Vittorio Missoni, and brothers Marco Missoni and Ottavio Missoni Jr.

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Stella McCartney Pre-Fall 2013

By Justin Fenner

Is there any party like a Stella McCartney pre-collection party? As she’s done before, the designer brought her Pre-Fall offering to New York City and presented it as part of a lavish cocktail party. This week’s event at the Americas Society drew a number of McCartney’s boldfaced fans: Anna Wintour, Garance Doré, and Glenn Close were spotted in the crowd, and so were Alec Baldwin, his wife Hilaria Thomas, and Jessica and Jerry Seinfeld.

But not even stars that bright could outshine the models or what they were wearing: Hanne Gaby Odiele, for example, was spotted sitting on a comfortable-looking chair. If she weren’t dressed in head-to-toe McCartney, she would have looked like any other chic partygoer.

That might be because the clothes themselves were designed, in McCartney’s words, to “address every need of the modern woman’s wardrobe.” Odiele’s dress was a long-sleeved gown in black and white, but the collection featured plenty of functional coats (some double-breasted varietals feature lapels so wide they span their wearer’s shoulders) and no shortage of well-tailored separates. The tone-on-tone floral prints in oxblood and dark blue add visual interest, and so do the stripes in black, white, orange, and red.

A few pictures from the party below, as well as the full collection, here in the gallery.

Source: Getty

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Chanel Heads to Texas, T's Covergirl, and Stella McCartney's Perfect Vision

By Robert Khederian

All the bits fit to print, here in our daily news roundup.

  • Karl Lagerfeld has revealed the location of Chanel’s next Métiers d’Art show. “I will go to Dallas,” he said. “You know why? First of all, I love Texas. I love Texans.” [Vogue UK]
  • Lee Radziwill will reportedly cover Deborah Needleman‘s debut issue of T Magazine next month. [Daily Front Row]
  • Bryan Boy’s grandmother Eleonora is the namesake of Rebecca Minkoff‘s latest bag, the Elle. [Racked]
  • Stella McCartney will launch her first collection of eyeglasses in March. Prices will range from $230 to $245. [FashionUnited]
  • Did designer Hanae Mori inspire all the butterflies in the Spring 2013 collections? [W Magazine]
  • Gucci’s new scent Forever Now, which will debut this week, features notes of Florentine iris, orange blossom, and leather. [WWD]
  • Manuel Mota, creative director of the bridal label Pronovias, passed away on Tuesday. He was 46. [Vogue UK]
  • Target will now match the prices of identical goods offered on Amazon, Walmart.com, and BestBuy.com. [InStyle]
  • This year’s BAFTA nominees have been announced. [BAFTA]

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Is PPR Already Interviewing New CEOs For Christopher Kane?

By Justin Fenner

While there’s been no official announcement on whether PPR will invest in Christopher Kane‘s eponymous label, the latest reports suggest the firm is getting closer to making a deal.

Unnamed sources have told WWD that Alexis Babeau, managing director of PPR‘s luxury division, has interviewed candidates to be the brand’s new CEO once it becomes part of PPR‘s portfolio. Kane currently runs the business with his sister Tammy.

Rumors that PPR would add Kane’s label to its stable of brands – which includes Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, and Gucci, among others – started going around when Kane left his position as the creative director of Versace’s secondary line Versus. At the time, it was rumored that Kane would come to PPR to replace Nicolas Ghesquière as the creative director of Balenciaga, a job that eventually went to Alexander Wang. Kane has reportedly been in talks with PPR since November, but so far nothing concrete has come from the meetings.

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Avoiding the Plague: How Fashion People Survive Flu Season

By Justin Fenner

It’s been said an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and some of the industry’s biggest names seem to take that old adage to heart. More than one attendee of last night’s opening dinner for the WWD CEO Summit told us that staying active is the best way to stave off colds.

“I exercise a lot because I like to do Iron Man triathlons,” Elettra Wiedemann said, “so I kind of feel like my immune system is generally kind of boosted by all the exercise.”

When we asked Theory CEO Andrew Rosen how he stays healthy, he said simply, “I go to the gym every day.”

What other methods do fashion people use to stay healthy – or get well again – when cold and flu season strikes? The answers here in the gallery.

Photo courtesy of Billy Farrell Agency

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Karl Lagerfeld: "I Have Nothing to Say"

By Christina Perez

He may be the most quoted man in fashion, but that doesn’t mean Karl Lagerfeld feels inclined to write a book any time soon. “No memoirs,” the Kaiser stated at today’s WWD CEO Summit at New York’s Plaza Hotel. “I have nothing to say.”

While that may be true, at least as far as the written word goes anyway, the legendary designer still voiced plenty of thoughts today in person. From the surprising locale of his next show (Dallas) to how it feels to be marking his 30th anniversary at Chanel (“Some people say I’m a hired gun. Well, I’m very happy to be one.”), Lagerfeld kept the bon mots coming and the assembled crowd – which included Anna Wintour, Carine Roitfeld, and Sarah Jessica Parker – hanging on every word. Below, a few gems:

On career longevity: “Fashion is for people to wear and that has not changed.”

On inspiration: “When I like something, I don’t ask myself why. I just like it.”

On couture today: “There are so many new worlds, and so much new money. We have more couture clients now than we did 20 years ago. Many of the rich people of the past are poor compared to the rich people of today, I’m sorry.”

On his childhood ambitions: “I didn’t even know one could make a business out of fashion. Back then it was called clothes.”

On designers who complain about the workload: “You accept a job, you know the conditions. Don’t play the victim.”

On what irritates him most: “People who create complications in order to appear more professional.”

On Paris in the ’80s: “The ’80s were very difficult. I prefer to forget about them.”

On career setbacks: “Sometimes you go two steps back but that’s a healthy thing. No one’s career is a straight line.”

On his look: “You may think it’s very distinct but to me it is normal.”

On the potential of a retrospective: “I would never make a retrospective. I look forward, ahead, ahead. I don’t keep any kind of archive even.”

On his three steps to success: “What? Steps? Oh, there’s a whole staircase.”

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Odelay! Beck Now Moonlighting as Model For Saint Laurent

By Justin Fenner

Well, we guess Beck’s doing fine. In addition to releasing his latest project Song Reader – a collection of sheet music – last month, the award-winning 42-year-old musician was also featured in the Spring 2013 campaign for Saint Laurent. Beck sat for the photos, shot and styled by the house’s creative director Hedi Slimane, in Los Angeles last October.

Beck is the second musician Slimane has shot for Saint Laurent‘s campaign since he featured singer Christopher Owens in his very first ads for the house. And like the rest of the images, Saskia de Brauw’s menswear ads included, these are black and white and mostly feature the brand’s suiting – although there’s a pretty fantastic hat involved in three of the photos.

Photos courtesy of Saint Laurent.

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Rachel Zoe's Dazzling New Gig, Taschen's New Westwood Tome, and Karlie Kloss's Latest Romp

By Robert Khederian

All the bits fit to print here, in our daily news roundup.

  • i-D Magazine‘s Terry Jones curated the latest Taschen release, Vivienne Westwood, which reflects on the designer’s influence on British fashion over the last 30 years. [Fashionologie Inbox]
  • Today marks Carolina Herrera‘s 74th birthday. [InStyle]
  • ShoeDazzle has named Rachel Zoe its chief stylist. [WWD]
  • Meanwhile, Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes has tapped former Brioni artistic director Jason Basmajian to be its new creative director. [Vogue UK]
  • Terry Richardson’s latest campaign for Equinox was shot at the Stahl House in the Hollywood Hills. [Elle]
  • Rugby Ralph Lauren, which is set to shutter by February, is offering 40 percent off all merchandise both in stores and online. [The Shophound]
  • JCPenney CEO Ron Johnson says he isn’t making ecommerce a priority. “You’ve got to focus on where they are shopping today, and that is the physical store.” [Racked]
  • This is what the debranded products offered by Selfridges’ No Noise campaign look like. [Refinery29]
  • Karlie Kloss may have spent last season beating up men on the beach, but you’d never know that from her ethereal commercial for Juicy Couture‘s new scent, Couture La La. [Fashion Copious]

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Expect to See Naomi Campbell Doling Out Lots of "Tough Love" on The Face

By Justin Fenner

Naomi Campbell says she tried to give the girls she coached during the first season of The Face, which premieres on Feb. 12, a dose of what the modeling industry is really like.

“I need their morale to be up and at the same time, I’m not the kind of coach that sugar coated things for them,” she said in an interview with Modelinia. “I wanted them to get a sense of the real world and what it’s like, so I had to coach them with tough love, but I do love my girls.”

Campbell didn’t give much away when asked about what viewers can expect from the show, but she said even people who aren’t interested in modeling could get something out of it.

“I’m authentic. I tell my girls about the experiences I’ve been through when I need to identify with them. And when I think there’s something they can change I give them suggestions, but they don’t always have to do what I suggest. I take them out of their comfort zone, but they trust me and that’s what really touched me the most – that they trusted me and triumphed at all of the things they didn’t think they would triumph in,” she said. “It’s not only about modeling, it’s life lessons. I think many women out there will be inspired by many of the things we say, whether they want to be a model or not.”

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Will Carine Roitfeld Join Alexander Wang as Balenciaga's New Stylist?

By Justin Fenner

Alexander Wang is rumored to have asked Carine Roitfeld to join Balenciaga as his in-house stylist, but so far there’s been no confirmation of the news.

In fact, Grazia, the first news outlet to report on the pairing, has since taken its post down, but that hasn’t stopped other sites from picking up the story. If the rumors hold water, Roitfeld would replace Balenciaga’s longtime stylist Marie-Amélie Sauvé, who worked with Nicolas Ghesquière during his tenure at the brand.

Wang and Roitfeld are friends, too, and have worked together in the past (Wang was photographed for Karl Lagerfeld‘s book The Little Black Jacket, which Roitfeld helped style), but this partnership would be their biggest collaboration yet. In her new position, Roitfeld would help Wang style his runway collections and ad campaigns, giving her an undeniable influence at the brand.

Wang took over for Ghesquière at the end of December and will present his first collection for the house in February. Whether Roitfeld will have anything to do with the show remains to be seen.

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Get Playful With Friends & Associates Spring 2013

By Christina Perez

Come warm weather, everyone needs a carefree uniform to slip on. Baseball tees, boxy shifts, tennis skirts – they’re the stuff of summertime wardrobe dreams. And if they come in fabrics like watery silk or can’t-look-away gingham checks, then all the better.

That’s the premise, anyway, behind Matthew Edelstein‘s label Friends & Associates, and it’s a premise that works. For these are jaunty separates and airy silhouettes that not only scream playtime – bike rides, picnics, boating – but they’re also grown-up enough that they’ll fit right in on a city rooftop with a cocktail in hand. One wide-cut t-shirt dress in vibrant Little Orphan Annie red, for example, is actually made of buttery silk, while a black and white plaid skirt is made all the more kicky thanks to the cheery addition of godet pleats.

Though this latest collection won’t be available until April (just in time for fireflies and capture the flag), the debut Resort 2013 collection is available to shop now on the brand’s website. An exclusive look at the full Spring 2013 collection – priced $129-$415 – right here.

Photos: Hugh Lippe courtesy of Friends & Associates

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Kate Lanphear Named Style Director at T Magazine

By Justin Fenner

Kate Lanphear has found a new job after leaving her position as Elle‘s style director in November.

Journalist Jim Shi tweeted on Monday that “Lanphear has joined T: The New York Times Style Magazine as style director. She’ll be at the upcoming women’s shows with Team T.” The Times‘ official communications account later confirmed the news by tweeting, “Welcome to Kate Lanphear, new Style Director of @TMagazine.”

Lanphear has been the subject of a number of job-related rumors over the past several months. In October, she was mentioned as a possible replacement for Deborah Needleman, who left WSJ. Magazine to take over T in September. In November, some believed she was headed to a start-up magazine called Editorialist.

She’s the newest big-name addition to the team since stylist Joe McKenna was named the magazine’s fashion director at large in November.

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie

Tom Ford to Stage "a Regular, Real Show" During London Fashion Week

By Justin Fenner

After five seasons of giving small and private presentations of his women’s clothing, Tom Ford is coming back to the runway for Fall 2013.

Ford told The Sunday Times Magazine that he plans to stage a large-scale show during London Fashion Week. The official schedule has Ford’s show down for 7 p.m. on Feb. 18.

“This is going to be for 500 to 1,000 people. Photographers, bloggers – a regular, real show,” Ford said. “I want to show in London because I now have 100 stores worldwide. The company has jumped and I can no longer service the stores by not showing. So I have to love it and embrace it.”

When Ford scheduled his women’s Spring 2011 show – his first offering for the ladies since leaving Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent in 2004 – he kept the show private so the clothing wouldn’t get overexposed. He enlisted women like Beyoncé, Daphne Guinness and Lou Doillon as models. Only 100 people were invited to attend, and Terry Richardson was the only photographer allowed to take pictures.

“I want fashion to be fun again, like it was in the ’60s,” Ford said at the time. “You couldn’t wait to get the clothes and put them on, and I think we’ve lost that.”

That first show was in New York, but Ford said he likes living in London.

“I hope it works here, because my dream goal is to raise my children here,” he said. “I’m very old fashioned, When I was little, I was brought up to say, ‘Hello, Mr. Ford’, ‘Hello Mrs. so-and-so’, ‘Sir and ma’am.’ I want that for my children . . . I’m only here 180 days [of the year], but I like the humour, the formality, the manners, the irreverence in England.”

Source: FULL ARTICLE at fashionologie