Tag Archives: suggestions

Mike O'Donohue: My second experience of the Ubuntu LoCo Team re- approval process. Not as straight forward as the first!

Back in the Summer of 2011 my first experience of the Ubuntu LoCo Team re- approval process was very positive and exciting. I happily helped in the preparation and delivery of the Ubuntu Ireland 2011 re-approval application. I even wrote a very enthusiastic blog post about the whole experience.

This time though, things were much different…..

Activity in the Ubuntu Ireland Team has decreased significantly since our initial re-approval in 2011. By the summer of 2012 I was becoming concerned that our low activity levels would reduce our chances of retaining our approved status at the next time of asking. I aired my concerns regarding the poor state of the Irish LoCo on the Team mailing list in August 2012 (my initial post can be found here).  The positive feedback received led to a team reboot discussion developing which started in November 2012 (my initial post regarding the team reboot can be found here). This team reboot is ongoing but there is no denying that our team activity remains weak. However, despite this low activity it was clear that there were still a few warm cinders in the Ubuntu Ireland Team fire and there certainly was a lot of good will being expressed towards remaining approved. Based on this I felt it was worthwhile for our LoCo to seek re-approval. I prepared our 2013 re-approval application, basing it on the standard template and our 2011 application.  Active Team member Keith Drummond provided some very useful suggestions that were incorporated into our application.

Our Team was up for re-approval at the 16th of July, 2013 LoCo Council meeting.   I was quite nervous and by no means confident about our chances. Despite this I was relieved that the time had come to honestly state the current condition on our LoCo and see how that would be received. We were the third and last team up for re-approval. Two very impressive teams preceded us (The Japanese Team and the Tunisian Team).

When the time came we gave a frank account of our slow demise over the last two years. We also maintained that some activity still existed and that the reboot efforts were ongoing. The LoCo council recognised this lull in activity as a somewhat common occurrence. Given due consideration to the remaining activity in our LoCo and the fact that four team members had turned up to offer support for our application the LoCo Council approved our re-approval application. I was truly delighted that we had achieved this and I am very thankful that the LoCo Council saw fit to keep faith in our little LoCo and maintain our approved status.

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at Planet Ubuntu

Q: Newbie confused by Vistap 20P behavior

By zebmina

Hello experts!

I have the following (as a starter):

Vista 20P
5811 wireless door sensors
5853 wireless glassbreak sensors
5800 PIR-RES wireless motion sensors
Envisalink 3
6160RF keypad

Installation and configuration was pretty straightforward (after the few obligatory user errors!).

I have the 5811s as ZT 1 & 2 (entry/exit). The 5800s and the 5853s are configured as ZT 4 (interior follower). I plan on adding other sensors in a bit.

All the sensors were configured as Loop 1 (I read somewhere that these should be configured as Loop 2, but for some reason, I could not). I am not sure if the situation I am seeing is related.

Occasionally, the 5853 raises a “Check”, and I am not sure why. the “Check” does not clear and requires me to enter the Installer Code + 800 + *99 to clear it.

The 5800s raise a “Fault” when I trigger that, and the code clears after a couple of seconds.

I am confused about why one of the sensors throws a “Check” and the others throw a “Fault”.

Any ideas/suggestions are gratefully welcomed.

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Wiring single pole dimmer switch with 3 sets of wires

By Doug Strick

I’m currently moving a single pole dimmer switch around the corner because we’re expanding a doorway. Unfortunately, I forgot to make notes of my wiring on the old switch when I removed it. I think I know how to wire it properly, but not 100% sure. The switch controls a single chandelier, but has 3 sets of wires going into it. So I have 3 black, 3 white and 3 ground wires. 2 sets were going up to the bottom supplying power and one was connected through the top which I’m guessing is what’s supplying power to the chandelier. The switch itself just has 1 ground, 1 common and 1 load connection.

Does anyone have any suggestions on the proper way to wire it up again? Thanks

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Best course of action? 1st floor room with no current light fixtures

By GarrettCasey

Alright, let me describe the project. I am new to the forums so I hope that I don’t mess anything up.

House age: 1950
Overall Project: Existing room with no current use being converted to bar room
Current status of project: Bar has been built in the room

Current electrical in room: 4 wall outlets only, not controlled by any switches
Current room features: Textured ceiling, smooth walls, crown molding
Room location: First floor with two walls on exterior of room, no crawlspace above, basement directly below with access. Electrical panel is in basement directly below room.

Current project: Install 4 pendant lights above bar and 3 recessed lights scattered about room to provide lighting in areas where its needed

Problem: I have no idea where to begin

I am a relatively new home owner. I like to do things where I can, mostly because I like to learn new things. I am a mechanical engineer by trade so I understand concepts fairly easily, the how-to is the part that I struggle with. So reading above, I am looking for the best way to wire this project. I’ve gotten suggestions ranging from removing the whole ceiling to cut a hole in the ceiling and see what I’ve got. I’d rather not go with a plan of action that starts with, cut it open and see what you’re working with. I have access to most tools through collection of family members so that is not a problem.

I have never wired anything to this extent before. I’d prefer that “pay someone else to do it” is not the option being suggested, as that is always plan B.

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Airlock relief hole on Wayne WSS30V and other suggestions

By Riverstorm

I bought a Wayne 1/2 HP Battery Backup Sump Pump System Model# WSS30V with the battery backup. It’s has a “Y” connector that connects two pumps together. The check valve threads directly on the pump. I did actually call Wayne and they said it doesn’t require but they recommend drilling a 1/8″ airlock relief hole.

My question is since the check valve is threaded directly to the pump do I still need it? If so where would I drill it? Most of the posts say between the discharge pipe and check valve. That’s not possible in this setup.

Also if I do drill a hole should I do it on both sides of the Y connector or would one suffice? Possibly further up the pipe where it merges? If you Google a picture it only has about 2 inches on each side between the rubber coupling connecting the check valve to where the Y connector starts. It’s really a compact setup to goes back down to one pipe within a few inches.

This time of year we have little rain so my pit is dry and give me some time to test it with a garden hose hooked to a faucet in the basement utility room. The main pump leaves a few inches of water in the bottom keeping the intake covered but that secondary pump sucks the water right down to the bottom and also I see a side jet of water shooting from it. It doesn’t shut off until it’s emptied. I am guessing if the backup does kick on and it drains it all the way down it could “deprime” the pump? The switch sits higher and doesn’t kick on unless the pit is filling really fast but in the spring it cycles constantly and during heavy rains it goes off at 15 to 20 second intervals and I could see them both working during that time.

Another question. I am basically replacing the radon cover on my sump pump pit since I am tired of scraping and caulking every time I get into the pit.

Do you have any suggestions on how high to make the pipe before changing 90 degrees and going towards the wall? I was going to have the pipe about 3 feet above the hole (to high or to low?). Then join the pipe with a rubber coupling and go right through the lid and use another coupling to connect to the sump pumps.

The lid I was going to use is called the “Original Radon Cover” Sump Dome (Google has good pics). My thought was I could easily disassemble the lid for a quick look or if need be I could take it apart without much effort and no caulking. 🙂

This lid has a 4″ high ring base that attaches to the floor that is stationary and then the cover is removable from the top with a few screws around the lip.<br …read more

Source: DoItYourself.com

Trane XE 90 cleaning questions

By DIYNovice

We have a 17 year old trane xe 90 furnace which has never been cleaned. I have removed the control board and blower fan (yuk), and am wonder how to clean the secondary heat exchanger without bending the fins or getting a face full of dust. I was thinking of blowing compressed air from the top side. Any other suggestions? Thanks
Attached Images

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Source: DoItYourself.com

AC Trips breaker after 5 seconds

By mjackson0914

My AC unit will trip the circuit break after about 5 seconds when it is turned on, the fan will be coming up to speed and then it trips off. I have opened up the unit and the motor, checked for grounds and free rotation of the fan blade and everything checks out. The capacitor was discharged when i was checking it and that makes me think that thats the problem, its only been a day since my unit has stopped working. I dont know how to check if a capacitor is good with my multi meter, does anyone have any input or suggestions?

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Sub-panel – Conduit vs NM options

By gmanvbva

I am in the process of finishing off my basement and I want to put a sub-panel in.

I only plan on requiring a 35-40 amps (per my load calc) to be fed from the sub-panel initially but would prefer to put in at least a 60 amp panel (breaker).

The feeder to the sub panel would run up a studded/sheetrocked wall, into my garage attic and across to the opposite wall, down this opposite wall and through studs/floor joists and into the basement.

As I see it, my four options are.

1. Run NM 6/3 from main service panel to sub-panel. I understand the NM is only rated for 55 amps but in my research I can round up to 60 and protect this with a 60 amp breaker in the main service panel if my intended load will be no more than 55 Amps. This is definitely the easiest solution but it limits any future expansion to 55 Amps. If I later add a kitchenette in the basement I would be in the 55-59 Amp range when accommodating for the additional circuits (range, small appliances, etc.).

2. Run #6 THHN (6-6-6–8) in 3/4″ EMT conduit from the main service panel to the sub-panel. This is my preferred method since it gives me a true 60 Amps. 75 really… which could possibly be later rounded up to 80; if more than 60 (but less than 75) is needed. My concern with this is I believe I have to run the conduit from service panel to service panel. The gotcha with this is that my interior garage wall sits directly over my basement poured concrete wall. So I would need to bend/offset the 3/4″ EMT inside a bored hole in order to run it down through the wall to the basement and to the sub-panel. I’ve never bent EMT so I’m not sure how difficult this is going to be.

3. Run #4 THHN (4-4-4-8) in 1″ EMT. This would definitely allow for any future expansion but unless my inter-wall offset will be relatively easy with 1″ EMT, this would likely be a complete PITA.

4. 1. Run (2) NM 6/3 cables from main service panel to (2) sub-panels protected by 40 breakers in the main. May be the easiest route to get 60-80 Amps in the basement?

Any feedback, suggestions or alternative solutions?

Edit: I’ve attached a very crude picture of the situation.

Attached Images

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Help with sound dampening

By ngordonmd

Could use a little advice with my new house. I just bought a top/bottom duplex and will be living in the basement apartment. I had to gut the whole unit so now have all the floor joists exposed. I want to maximize sound dampening from the upstairs as much as possible. However, the ceilings in the apartment are only 6’6″ so I have to conserve as much space as possible. My current plan is just to insulate with R19 between the joists and then Sheetrock over. I was also thinking about putting green glue along the joists where they will be in contact with the drywall. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

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Source: DoItYourself.com

To Break-Up, Or Not To Break-Up: Can A Suit Be Styled Multiple Ways?

By Courtney Rosica and Heidi Wildemann, Contributor

A great suit is something we all have in our closets; a basic that we often use as our go-to look for interviews, presentations, and client meetings.  But what if you could give your suit a second life, and style the suit as separates?  Not only will you give your suit another purpose, but you are maximizing your wardrobe (and wallet) as well! Many retailers are in the midst of summer sales, and now is the time to pick up a few suits that will work well as separates.  Suits with interesting details or updated finishes works best when breaking them up into different outfits.  But, to be an effective wallet-friendly option, be careful not to spend too much on trendy suits.  Take this Mango skirt-suit that is on sale for  $105; it’s a summer suit with interesting on-trend details and is budget friendly.   See below for our styling suggestions.   …read more

Source: FULL ARTICLE at Forbes Latest

What are some top rated translucent finishes?

By guy48065

I finally have my northern white cedar lap siding and hopefully will be putting it up in the next month or so. Initially I was going to use Sikkens SDF but recently found out it’s not a penetrating finish like I thought but is a film finish. I think I want to stay clear of film finishes. A brand called Sansin has been recommended to me and the online info looks good.
I’m hoping for more suggestions on other brands to consider that have a proven track record on natural wood.

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Time taking for cfgmgr on dual VIO

By Sachin1987


From the man page, cfgmgr configures devices and optionally installs device software by running the programs specified in the Configuration Rules object class and it is not dependent on platform [standalone/VIO].

Are there any fundamental differences impacting the speed of cfgmgr on a stand-alone and dual VIO server?

On VIO server cfgmgr is taking more time to compare with stand-alone machine.

Thanks for yours suggestions and help.

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at The UNIX and Linux Forums

Who do I call and what do I want to "divide" the ivy section from the soil?

By ToolbeltPajamas

Quick question.

I’d like to get a “divider” (not sure what to call it) put in between the ivy area and the soil to keep a seperation of area but also to keep the flooding/pooling of water away.

What type of person would you call to perform this work and any ideas of what to ask for?

Basically I’m ok if it’s just like a 2 inch thick wooden board or similar for the 50 feet of run that maybe goes in about 6-12 inches and sticks up about 6 inches…type of thing.

Do I just call a landscaper or a fence company or…and any suggestions on what to put in to help keep seperation and water from draining out since it’s sloped?


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Source: DoItYourself.com

Official: Mercedes knows its buyers, designs golf cart of the future

By Jonathon Ramsey

Mercedes-Benz Vision golf cart concept - rendering - front three-quarter view

Filed under:

The Mercedes-Benz Vision golf cart isn’t a golf cart at all, it’s an electric luxo-buggy that you can use on the greens and that should have its own model-line designation, like Tee-Class. The Germans gathered suggestions from around the world for the ideal golfer carrier, and the top poll findings are wrapped in a design language that the doodlers at the Advanced Design Center call “Sensual-Purity.”

The doors can be clicked in or out. There are solar cells on the roof to charge the batteries. It’s driven by a center-mounted joystick so that the driver or passenger can take the helm. There’s a head-up display, docking station and touch screen monitors for control of amenities like air conditioning, stereo and Bluetooth, weather updates and maps of the course layout. And a refrigerator and retractable lightning rod. And then there’s the “fore button” – press it and it tells the other nearby Vision golf carts to sound “a warning signal” about an errant shot.

Mercedes says of its creation, “Simplicity is the key.” Obviously. You can read about the rest of its amenities in the press release below.

Continue reading Mercedes knows its buyers, designs golf cart of the future

Mercedes knows its buyers, designs golf cart of the future originally appeared on Autoblog on Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:01:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at Autoblog

Ademco Vista 20P Locked out and *88 option 2

By mrasile

Hi Folks,

I’ve read some of the other suggestions here regarding lock out conditions but I just can’t figure out why mine even got locked out in the first place. I had purchased a reconditioned 20P board and installed it. I was able to get into programming a couple of times with Power-up and * + #.

I didn’t change *88
I did however update the Installer Code to a new 4-dig number
I exited with *98

I wanted to figure out all the settings I was going to program following that so I unplugged the power and battery but didn’t get back to it for several months.

So now when I power up * + # doesn’t do anything. I’m not able to get in and after 1 minute it just displays ***Disarmed*** Hit * for Faults. After a few presses of any keys it locks up.

Could leaving the unit without power for so long put it in this condition? I thought no matter how long that * + # would always get you back in??

Wondering if I need another board??

Also I’d like clarification on the use of *88. Value 2 = “not used”. This can be taken 2 ways: 1) meaning the option is not recognized by the system and does nothing… but … 2) could mean if set to “2” the system will never be locked out of programming. Anyone know which one it means?

Thanks for any assistance,

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Read Parameters from one file and make a script

By jacobs.smith

Hi Friends,

I have the following input parameters file



I want to make the following script


# Name: name
# Task: name
#$ -N name
#$ -e input/err1.log
#$ -o input/out1.log
#$ -pe threaded 1
#$ -l h_vmem=40G



cd input

mkdir input/DET/

mkdir input/sylamer/

mkdir input/DET/dir1_vs_dir2

mkdir input/sylamer/dir1_vs_dir2

myprogram.sh -i 123456 -o input/DET/dir1_vs_dir2 -1 input/dir1 -2 input/dir2

cd input/sylamer/dir1_vs_dir2

R CMD BATCH --no-save --no-restore "--args ref="mmu" DETDIR="input/DET/dir1_vs_dir2" outName="dir1_vs_dir2" UCSCLink="http://test.com?id=123456"" myprogram2.sh

So, the order of parameters u see in the input file are coming in the same order in the output too. Please don’t hesitate to reply if you have any questions or suggestions on how to deal with. Thanks in advance.

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at The UNIX and Linux Forums

Cargo trailer floor

By skinut2234

I bought a used cargo trailer- 6′ x 10′ to tow equipment in. The floor looks like 3/4″ plywood but looks to be worn- the metal beams under it look to be in good shape. I am wondering how difficult it is to remove the old plywood and install new plywood. ANy advice-suggestions? Looks like it’s all screwed down to the metal beams- i am not sude what type of screws are used

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Count and print the number of occurences

By arch

I have some files as shown below

GLL ALK 654-656 654 656
SEM LYG 655-657 655 657
SEM LYG 655-657 655 657
ALM ARN 656-658 656 658
ALM ARN 656-658 656 658
ALM ARN 656-658 656 658
LEG LEG 658-660 658 660
LEG LEG 658-660 658 660

The value of GLL is 654. Th value of ALK is 656. In the same way, 4th column represents the values of first column. 5th column represents the values of second column.

I tried the following program to count the occurrences of each number in the fourth and fifth column.

for i in folder1/*.pdb;
awk ‘
path=sprintf(“%s”, “/home/arch/Desktop/folder2/”)
for (x in sU)
print x, sU[x], sU[$1] > path FILENAME;
}’ $i;

The above program prints as follows

660 1
654 1
655 1
656 2
657 1
658 2

But I would like to get the output as follows

660 LEG 1
654 GLL 1
655 SEM 1
656 ALM 2
657 LYG 1
658 LEG 2

your suggestions would be appreciated!!

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at The UNIX and Linux Forums

Oreck 550 and refinishing hardwood floors

By The Heel

Hello everyone,

First time poster, have lurked around here for a few months and soon to be first time home owner (of a house).

As I stated above, my wife and I will be purchasing a home in early August. I have limited knowledge of refinishing hardwood flooring. The floors in this house are scratched up from what appears to be dog nails. It doesn’t seem too deep so I will probably use a 100-120 grit. Since this is a huge purchase, I want to do them myself, I bought a used Oreck 550 machine for this job.

I have been scouring the internet for info on what attachments I should use with the Oreck. I have to say YouTube is a huge help with this. What would you guys recommend to finish this (buffer type/wax). I do not want to polyurathane. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Recommendations on websites to purchase materials would also help.

Thank you,

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Need ideas – how to enclose patio with patio door screens?

By sofasurfer

I have a concrete patio. It has an aluminum awning above it. I want to enclose the sides with patio door screens. I need ideas on how to accomplish this. Right off the top of my head I am thinking that I would buy patio door top and bottom rails and mount them. Looking for other suggestions.

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Source: DoItYourself.com