There is an odor beneath our downstairs sink. It smells like cabbage and has become very strong. Any help is appreciated. Here is some more information:

• There is a PVC P trap. I am familiar with the purpose of the P trap, but wonder if there is a possibility that it isn’t deep enough? This is PVC but I believe the piping in the wall is metal.
  This odor has been faint in the past but is very strong right now.
  We haven’t had any more rain than normal.
  The bathroom is downstairs (actually the basement level of a split foyer home).
  This bathroom is also the laundry room. I have not been doing any more laundry than usual, but I have recently begun taking showers daily in this downstairs bathroom.
  The odor is strictly beneath the sink in the cabinet area. When I smell the sink drain or the overflow opening in the sink bowl, I do not get the smell. I don’t smell anything around the shower or toilet.
  I have a septic system. It was pumped and a gravel pit and drain lines were installed 5 years ago. That is all I know because it was a short-sale house.
  This downstairs sink drains quickly, however two side-by-side sinks upstairs do have very slow drainage.
  I don’t believe there is a dead animal anywhere causing this smell (as some have suggested in other threads).
  I believe it is coming from the pipes beneath the sink. They do not leak any liquid.

  I know this is a lot of detail but hoped it would help narrow things.

  I have read some places that there could be a clog in the vent stack. If anyone could give info or send a link on how to check that I would appreciate it (or if you even think that could be the culprit).

  We bought a home warranty (which has paid for itself!) so if there is a great deal of work required by a plumber hopefully it will be covered.

  Any ideas are appreciated. This sewage/cabbage smell is awful and we of course have company coming Friday.

Thanks in advance from a first time homeowner who has a lot to learn

Hey All,

So the contractor I hired was doing really good…. but what happens happens….. towards the end of the job he started showing up only once a week and not answering his phone or texts.

So we wanted to finish our basement and add a full bathroom down there since my mother was gonna move in. So he broke the concrete and replaced the cast iron pipes with PVC. (One pipe had a hole in it).

The dimensions of the bathroom is 70″ by 60″. she wanted a shower instead of a bathtub(60″X30″) so I decided to get here a wide shower so she could fit more comfortable.

you can see by the pics I added that the job is not complete. I wanted to know if where he put a 4 “drain pipe with a reducer 2” drain, can I change that section for a 4 in. PVC DWV Double Sanitary Tee that will reduce to 2″ for shower and 1.5″ to the sink?

Also he said that the toilet didn’t need to be vented… is this correct? if not how do I correct this issue??

Steve

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I have an underground downspout extension (4″ PVC) that froze and cracked over the winter. I’ll have to dig it up and replace it this Spring. I know that the extension is sloped properly underground away from the house. I also drilled many 1/2 holes in the end of the extension where I have a 90 elbow leading back to the surface with a pop-up for excess water. I drilled these holes just to ensure water wouldn’t sit in the downspout extension during the winter eventually cracking the pipe. I assume there weren’t enough holes in the end of the extension or the holes got clogged causing water to pool at the end of the extension? Would it be better to have a t at the end of the extension rather than a 90 so that water will drain into say a dry well? I see lots of these buried extensions in my area here in the twin cities – just wondering how they are set-up to avoid freezing and cracking.

Hi,
As part of a kitchen remodel, I’m planning (hoping!) to be able to bring my window down to counter height, and also widen it (from 40″ to somewhere b/w 52″ and 60″).

There is a shower right above the kitchen, where the drain I believe is coming through the floor just above the right side of the window, then coming down to the right of the window and then I’m assuming connecting with the kitchen sink drain at some point (since there is only one drain PVC visible from the basement below).

I will not be doing this myself, however I want to understand the process before I decide to do it. The contractor did generally say he can move electrical and plumbing to accommodate a lower/wider window. The window contractor just expects all this to be moved before he re-frames the opening.

What I want to confirm is:

– it is ok to re-route the drain piping from where it is to the right of the wider window (so around 10″ to the right), without moving the location of the drain PVC above the current window? So from the existing shower drain PVC, just run further to the right, then vertical along the window frame, then run back to connect to the current kitchen drain?

– similar question for the vent – although I do not actually see this at this point. I have soffits and I can see the drain PVC but not the venting PVC, but I assume it’s there somewhere.

I just want peace of mind that there will be no issues doing this (I need to order the window soon and I want to make sure the new window will work!)

Thanks!

When assembling pvc traps/fittings such as under a sink, should one use any thread compound on the fitting or nut? Some people say yes, since people tend to over tighten and the compound will help make a good thread seal.

What are your thoughs.