By doni49
Source: DoItYourself.com
By dnspade
Am told all options are on the table per code here (not very rigid). Based on other threads, am sensing PEX would be the preferred way to go, but wanted to verify. Seems like poly would be similar to work with, and PVC would be cheaper with 3x the burst strength of PEX, Cu looks prohibitively expensive and my 1″ solder joints seem to leak.
Never worked with PEX before.
Source: DoItYourself.com
By Melissa2012B
It came with insulation and plastic under the bottom, which makes it darn near impossible to improve anything. Since having it built here in 2005, we’ve had the crawl space insulated and sealed – they sealed the vents and insulated the side walls, and sealed them to the bottom plastic ground covering.
The house is so long though, that no matter how hot we make the water heater at one end, the hot water in the tub at the other end is barely warm. It must be 100 feet away. ( diagonally ) A handyman offered to do one of those hot cold links with a recirc pump, but the distance would still leave it too cool when it gets there.
But I’m wondering about this now: What if we hired someone to just take down and remove that plastic sheeting, without hurting anything else. Then we’d have insulation between the floor joists, right? But it could be removed and at least a fully insulated full hot water loop could be added? ( the plumbing is all PEX by the way )
But that plastic isn’t sealed anyway, doesn’t really hold the insulation in place ( the plastic is sagging ) and it seems like it wouldn’t hurt us energy wise to just remove it, right?
From: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/basements-attics-crawl-spaces/493673-crawl-space-changes.html
By dreslick
My family just bought and moved into a new home. My parents had a hydronic heating system in their house. The heat was always comfortable there so I was excited to see it when we looked at this house.
I need to do some plumbing work on the water supply. I have read about using oxygen impermeable PEX on the lines between the boiler and the radiator. That’s not what this post is about.
Can I use non-oxygen impermeable (without the special lining) PEX on the water supply for my house. I see that the boiler is filled from the hot water supply, so if I’m thinking correctly, I cannot use the non-oxygen impermeable on the hot water before it Tee’s into the boiler fill line. What about after that?
I am happy to post pictures and explain further, if you can get me started. Thank you for your time!
Nathan