By c5sv2
# = ‘prongs’/connections
Old Capacitor (Sorry about blurry image), GE Part #:97F9833
New Capacitor, GE Genteq Part #:27L877
If someone could tell me which wires go where that would be great.
Source: DoItYourself.com
I’ve got a closet that holds my HVAC intake and hot water heater (both electric). There is a large gap under the door which concerns me.. shouldn’t this be sealed? I’ve attached a picture to show what I mean. I can easily fit my thumb under the door. I don’t understand what the point of the air filter is if dirty air can simply be sucked under the door. This can’t be good for my AC unit?
If it matters, this is for a small condo, about 1200 sq ft, 2 bedroom / 2 bathroom. The condo is two floor and the HVAC closet is on the 2nd floor.
Thanks in advance for any help or insight.
Source: DoItYourself.com
By jasonkg80
I’ll preface my explanation of my A/C problem by listing the various parts I’ve replaced up until this point:
– Defrost Control Board (in heat pump – see pic)
– Contactor Relay
– Capacitor
– Replaced 5 amp fuse in Fan Control Board (in Air Handler)
– Transformer
– To test the T-Stat I took the one on the bottom floor and replace the second floor t-stat(T-Stat appears to be functioning)
Here is my A/C problem:
The motor/blower in the air handler inside the house turns on and air is blowing out the vents (hot air) when the thermostat is set to cool.
The outside unit (heat pump) fan is not kicking on and the compressor does not run until I manually press the contactor button.
When checking for voltage at the contactor I get 240VAC in and 240VAC across the contactor to the compressor.
When I press the contactor button the fan/compressor kicks on, at this point when I check for voltage across the contactor between the 24VAC leads I get 0 VAC. Seems to indicate something on the 24vac side is bad, not the 240vac???
Here is a manual that has a wiring diagram which looks similar to my system (I could not find the wiring diagram for my exact make/model Tempstar/tch236akd1):
http://icpindexing.toddsit.com/documents/086477/ 42123320101.pdf
I tested the contactor with the help of similar videos like this:
AC not starting up – Air Conditioner condensing unit lost power – Replace Contact contactor relay – YouTube (Preview)
Does this appear to be an issue with the defrost control board? Perhaps its not relaying the 24vac signal to contactor or is there another direction I should be taking to troubleshoot this issue? :help:
Source: DoItYourself.com
By WRDIY
Blue = Herm
Yellow = Common
Brown = Fan
Currently, AC is working fine right now. However, seen on other posts that Yellow = Herm and Blue = Common.
Thought I verify.
Thanks
Source: DoItYourself.com
By Irishman25
I am having a leaking problem with our AC unit (York brand). I noticed very cold water dripping from the master bathroom exhaust fan and climbed into attic and saw that the AC unit is dripping at the Plenum and also dripping at the housing over the drip pan. Checked the drip pan for blockage and it is empty and the drain is clear. Any thoughts on what this could be and how to fix??
Source: DoItYourself.com
By RatLabGuy
All of the existing return “ducts” are just flashed-in joists and between-stud space. Ugh.
To do this, I was going to take advantage of an existing line (made of flashing… see pic) and frame a column that will go down to the floor, and put a register on either side of the column (one serving each room).
(Yes, I know I am “stealing” from the vent above it… however as it turns out this vent is the 2nd in a large room, and the PO already framed in a desk over it so the register ended up inside a cabinet… it’s essentially doing nothing now so I was going to block it off anyway.)
The easy way to do this would be to just cut out that flashing, use the column as a giant “duct” and add the two registers. However (a) I know that’s not the right way, should use real duct, and (b) there is a gas line going up to a fireplace insert that is in the column space. The space beside that the gas line goes through is inside a soffit so it will be hidden.
What’s the best way to deal with this? Should I fab up a flex duct that ties into the flashing, around the gas line then goes down to a tee for each register?
it’s got to be fairly big for the combined space, rooms are ~145 & 300 sq ft.
However… I also anticipate little need for high heat/AC flow down there, aside from general air flow, the climate stays great and very dry even w/ everything blocked off.
Source: DoItYourself.com
By tpjs1951
One estimate was for a 15,000 BTU unit and the other for an 18,000 unit. The guy for the larger also quoted me the smaller unit, but seemed to think I’d be better off with the larger one. There is a fair difference in price, but I am really just concerned whether I really need the larger unit. I live in the mid-Atlantic where winter temps are rarely below 10 degrees. The first guy said I could always use my old baseboard heaters as a boost in extremes and we do use the fireplace on winter evenings…Hard to decide…Any thoughts????
Source: DoItYourself.com
By billct
Source: DoItYourself.com
By olimits7
I just purchased a home that has central AC that is 2 zoned; 1st zone upstairs and 2nd zone downstairs.
I have an unifinished basement that I will like to finish; what is the best way to add a 3rd zone to the basement?
I have the 2 air handlers in the attic, and the 2 compressors are on the side of the house.
Would I have to buy another air handler and compressor just for the basement to create a 3rd zone? Or would I be able to use my existing equipment to add a 3rd zone in the basement?
Thank you!
Source: DoItYourself.com
By Bob Ausink
Source: DoItYourself.com
By WRDIY
I turned on my AC today and after about an hour, I heard weird noise (hissing) like 4 years ago. All the sudden, it stopped working.
So i went out and inspect the unit and realized that the capacitor bulged, similar to the ones that were 4 years ago. Luckily, I have ordered an extra one a few months ago when I was changing one out the capacitor for my sister’s house. It worked when I put the new one in.
I have attached pictures. It is some China made brand. The new one is Lennox brand. You may not be able to see the bulge so obviously but if you look at the cap and also the fact that it can’t stand up straight.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oqbwkweceurfh4z/ylPi8a3M3l
I have a Hard Start Kit (Supco SPP6) on it.
So here are my questions:
Is this a common problem to replace a capacitor every 4 years or more?
OR
Is this just a lemon or cheap brand?
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ai…ml#post2116046
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ai…capacitor.html
OR
Is this some type of hidden AC problem, chewing up capacitor?
Source: DoItYourself.com
By Alex Dumitru
I have a Samsung AR12FSFTKWQN split unit, which has been acting weird for the last few days. The unit is only a month old.
The outside unit only works for 10-20 minutes then turns off automatically. Sometimes it turns back on after another 10-30 minutes.
Once the outside unit turns off, if I turn off/on the AC by myself it will turn on again, but soon the inside unit will beep 3 times and turn off. After that the good sleep and power lights keep blinking.
Can someone help me with an advice ?
Source: DoItYourself.com
Came back upstairs and noticed that the AC plug has a built in GFCI. So he reset it also. Hit the START button and the plug’s GFCI tripped instantly. Reset it a second time, after he removed the plug from the wall socket. Plugged it in, hit the start button again and it tripped again.
He unplugged it from the wall and let the plug sit on the floor. Couple of minutes later he notices WATER dripping out of the prongs or prong area of thee face of the plug!!!!
Next, he pulled the receptacle out of its electrical box, just to make sure the water did not come from inside the wall receptacle box. It was bone dry…dusty even.
He looked at the AC unit and the pug wire goes up through the front area of this AC unit and finds it way up to the motor.
The ends of the wire are separate and he can see the insides of the main plug wire. It looks like the actual individual wires are wrapped in a sort of white fuzzy material then the outer coating is added by the extrusion process probably.
There is no way the wire was in water AND this plug wire is in a common drip loop so about 3′ of this wire had to become saturated with water!! That is my conclusion since the receptacle is about 18″ off of the floor.
He is contacting Lowes but they may sand bag him since his 2 year warranty just ran out he thinks. This is going to be interesting…..
Source: DoItYourself.com
By Earlbe
Do I have a bad motor? Like I said it trys to kick on.
Source: DoItYourself.com
By EnvyThis
Currently, the controls that do the AC in my office are in a room downstairs that is stone, so that room stays pretty cool and does not kick the AC on enough for the office upstairs to remain cool.
Any suggestions on how to fix this? This house should of been zoned but was not when built.
Source: DoItYourself.com
Intel’s WiDi technology promises a lot: The third and fourth generations can wirelessly stream up to 1080p video, including copy-protected content such as commercially pressed Blu-ray movies, to a receiver embedded in an HDTV, a video projector, or some other display—or to a stand-alone receiver with an HDMI output that you plug into a display. Two fourth-gen adapters, Actiontec’s ScreenBeam Pro and Netgear’s Push2TV, are each smaller than a deck of cards, with just a couple of ports. How hard could this be?
Pretty hard, as it turns out: Both devices proved enormously complicated to set up. The Lenovo ThinkPad Helix Ultrabook that I used for testing required multiple reboots, driver updates, and reinstallations of Intel’s software. Unless you’re prepared for the possibility of arduous troubleshooting, I wouldn’t bother with either adapter. But if wireless streaming is something you must have, and if your laptop supports WiDi, you might consider Netgear’s product, which was the more reliable of the two—once I got it up and running.
Netgear’s Push2TV is the smaller of the two devices. Each one has a USB port and an HDMI output for connecting to your display. The Push2TV uses its USB port for its AC adapter, which means that you can power it from either your laptop or the provided AC adapter. The Actiontec ScreenBeam Pro has a full-size USB port, but it serves only to update the device’s firmware (you update the Push2TV’s firmware via a Wi-Fi connection). The ScreenBeam Pro relies on a separate connector for power and requires a AC adapter, which makes Netgear’s Push2TV the better travel companion.
Intel’s WiDi software does not support Macs, but it does support a specific list of WIndows 7 and 8 systems (see below for more details on compatibility). It automatically detects the WiDi adapter, sets up a peer-to-peer wireless connection, and initiates a pairing routine that’s similar to the process of pairing Bluetooth devices: The software prompts you to type in a numeric code that appears on the TV. Once you do, the software starts to stream the laptop’s video and audio to the TV. The pairing routine provides security for the connection, which is completely independent of your Wi-Fi network (apart from firmware updates for the Push2TV). You need to pair the laptop and receiver only once, and you can choose to have WiDi connect the two devices automatically when you launch the program.
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Source: FULL ARTICLE at PCWorld
By jnnewton
Q1: I have plenty of 4AWG CU wire, but cannot find a definitive answer as to whether it’s legal. Here’s the marking: “4AWG E51293(UL) MTW OR THW OR AWM 1232/1283/1337 600V VW-1 — LL22035 CSA TEW OR AWM 0 600V 105C W750C FT1 I A/E” Can anyone tell me if this is legal wire for feeding the subpanel L1, L2 & N? If not, I’ll just go to HD and get whatever they tell me is the preferred wire, but I’d rather not spend the $$$ if I don’t have to.
Q2: The wall it’s going on is the one that separates the garage and the house. Once I attach some wood (whatever I can find that is sturdy) to the wall, mount the box, and pull the feed wire into the garage, I feel it will be unprotected from me dragging stuff around, carrying metal, etc. I could drill holes back through the wall (2x 3/4″ OSB + 3/4″ drywall), and then route through the walls, but I know that wall is some sort of firewall of sorts, and am not sure the code on drilling several holes in it. Is this OK? I really want to encase it in a cabinet as well, but I’ve read this violates code (no cabinets, countertops, etc). Is there a better way to protect / hide it that is legal?
Q3: I have an odd back 3ft of the garage, in that I cannot run wiring from the walls to the attic / ceiling without drilling through an I-beam (which I won’t do). I have cabinets along one side and around the corner. They are against a footer on the side, and matched distance on the back. so not all the way against the wall. Is it legal to use that area between the cabinet and the wall, on top of the footer / floor as a “wireway” to avoid tearing out tons of drywall to drill through studs and run wire horizontally?
Source: DoItYourself.com
By Staken97
This past week, we had 3 or 4 power surges in our home and the condenser (even though there was a surge protector on it) kept popping the fuse box and would not go on when the tech came. The unit was 5 years old and the warranty expired. He sold us a new unit. It is a 3.5 ton, 13 seer (as our old one was) ICP Day and Night R-410A split air conditioner (Na4a3). It does not have heat in it, since we live in Florida and our air handler handles that. It was installed on Thursday with a new thermostat. The AC will not shut off. It runs continuously. We usually (and please don’t laugh) set it at 73 and the unit will not go below 75. We changed the thermostat thinking that was the problem but it is still happening! When we called him back to service it, he said that the unit is fine and is not sure why it is happening except that we keep it too low (which our old AC had no issue with before Thursday).
Any ideas? We will be calling another repair man but was wondering if there was anything we could do to fix this. I appreciate any information. Thanks in advance! :madhell:
Source: DoItYourself.com
By zargonog
My AC stopped coming on one day, so I decided to replace the thermostat to see if that would fix the issue.
My old thermostat, Totaline P374-1000, had W1, Y1, G, R, and C connected.
My new one is a Honeywell RTHL111, just real simple non-programmable. It is taking in the W, Y, G, and R, but it clearly says to leave C unconnected.
I’m back to the same position, everything works but the AC. I have a guy coming out to take a look at the outside unit, as I believe that is where the issue is, I just want to confirm if this setup is OK or not. Do I need to do something with the C wire, or get a different thermostat?
Broke the LCD on the old one so can’t use it anymore, and the last thing I want is for the tech to come out and charge me just to look at the thermostat and say get one a new one that takes in the C wire, even though the AC unit stopped working with the old thermostat.
Source: DoItYourself.com
By figureditout
Tom
Source: DoItYourself.com
