Tag Archives: HVAC

Do it yourself

How to tell when it's time to replace HVAC vs sink more $$$ into it?

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By agoldenbee

I know this is an extremely loaded question and depends on many factors, but in Googling I don’t find any direct discussions on this that I can easily walk away with some idea in my head – and I’m always weary of HVAC repair folks trying to upsell…

Our single-story 1H/1C unit was mfg in 2002 and we live in a part of California that has very warm summers, etc. We only know the history of the last couple years…and right now we don’t have to invest THAT much.

Of course this depends mostly on usage but since an HVAC doesn’t have an odometer, what does one do if you don’t know the history except the last 2 years?

Are there any rules to follow or keep in mind?

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

What might cause WiFi (C-wire required) tstats to reboot when heat turned on?

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By agoldenbee

Thanks for all the help – I was able to connect a few tstats with my 5 wires.

I first tried a Honeywell z-wave tstat and returned it after I couldn’t get the heat to work properly because the tstat would cycle/reboot after I tested the heat part. Couldn’t find anything wrong with settings so returned it thinking it defective.

I then had a Trane I bought work fine (from everything I remember) but I had intermittent issues with the z-wave functionality so…yeah…had to return it.

A friend had a first generation Nest he wasn’t using so I thought forget z-wave and let me go WiFi as there are better tstats out there and let me see what happens.

It worked fine, cold and heat.

So I chalked up that Honeywell large touchscreen to a bad unit.

I decided WiFi is my path and ordered an Ecobee Smart Si. LOVE the unit, all the settings the Nest didn’t have, etc.

Only…it cycled/rebooted when I tested heat!

So the Trane (from what I remember) and Nest didn’t reboot, the other two did.

I’ll call Ecobee tomorrow but I can’t see what the heat would be doing to cause this other than maybe when it kicks in, it pulls just too much power that the C wire isn’t delivering enough for some units so 2 of the 4 cycled when it kicked in?

Or maybe 2 of them had the internal battery keep it alive just long enough to get past the initial start because I know Nest can be off power for a while…?

If no one can guess what to check, I can only tell by buying a 24v transformer and trying it out. On the plus side, I have an outlet inside the HVAC closet and the tstat is a foot outside of it on the wall.

Can anyone recommend a 24v transformer to use for a dedicated C-wire off Amazon?

MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE!

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Proper Clearance/Seal for Door to Air Handler Room?

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By Danny Mongolia

Hey,

I’ve got a closet that holds my HVAC intake and hot water heater (both electric). There is a large gap under the door which concerns me.. shouldn’t this be sealed? I’ve attached a picture to show what I mean. I can easily fit my thumb under the door. I don’t understand what the point of the air filter is if dirty air can simply be sucked under the door. This can’t be good for my AC unit?

If it matters, this is for a small condo, about 1200 sq ft, 2 bedroom / 2 bathroom. The condo is two floor and the HVAC closet is on the 2nd floor.

Thanks in advance for any help or insight.

Attached Images

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

What are the applicances most likely to use a 2-pole circuit breaker?

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By tonic

This might be an odd question, but I am trying to make some space in my panel so that I have things orderly in case I add circuit breakers in the future…

I was just wondering. What are the applicances most likely to use a 2-pole circuit breaker? I know that most Air Conditioner Condensor/Compressor outdoor units use a 2-pole breaker. What about the HVAC unit? Or any of the kitchen or laundry appliances? Any of them use 2-pole breakers?

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Wiring help request #71562 (pictures + weird[?] 2 conductor from attic)

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By ToolbeltPajamas

Those that check in and help in this subforum must treat all these as baby puzzles 🙂 I think I’ll need to just pay a serviceman to come out and tell me what kind of system I have but hate spending that $$$ for just 5 minutes of time.

I’m replacing an older LUX 1500 tstat with a newer Honeywell (wifi or zwave, not sure yet) that requires a C wire (blue common).

So the first thing I did was look at what the current tstat has:

4 of the 5 wires with no blue common. Ok, well let’s look at the HVAC “system” (I think this is the blower? Not sure what it’s called, sorry):

Hey, there is the blue C common wire, no problem. From what I can tell it’s 24V so let’s just pull the rest of the wooden mount off the wall and grab the rest of the wire as the blue is likely there…

(sorry about the orientation)

Well, there is the blue C common wire but…umm…there is a conduit coming from the attic and it has a 2 conductor wire (red/white) that is wired as follows in case it isn’t clear:

– Yellow from HVAC goes to tstat and is wired into White from attic 2-conductor
– Blue from HVAC goes to red from attic 2-conductor

Current tstat ran on batteries and didn’t need the blue C common wire.

Soooooo my questions are as follows:

1) Any idea what that 2-conductor could be controlling given it’s basically the yellow/blue wire from the HVAC system?

2) The current tstat has no settings for 1/2 cycle heating or cooling so basically I don’t know what type of system I have – even if I just extend that blue common to also power the new tstat

I tried calling Tempstar and no real help.

Only thing that might help explain out of my newbieness is that unlike all my old apartment heating, when I turn the heat on here…I first hear a furnace run for a while heating up some element or other – then the blower kicks in and blows hot air throughout the house, then stops blowing and heats element for a while, etc. vs always being on.

Other pictures in case they help:


(sorry about orientation again)

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Remote Sensor or Controller for Honeywell TH8320U1008

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By EnvyThis

I have 3 separate HVAC units in my house. With that, I only have 3 thermostats that control each area. Since each area consists of a few rooms, I would like each room or atleast each common area to have control over the thermostat.

Currently, the controls that do the AC in my office are in a room downstairs that is stone, so that room stays pretty cool and does not kick the AC on enough for the office upstairs to remain cool.

Any suggestions on how to fix this? This house should of been zoned but was not when built.

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

AC Troubleshooting help needed

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By cesperon

Before this week- I knew nothing about AC other than I liked having it & I needed to change the filters- HA! Now I know enough to be dangerous… Over the past week I have had 4 (yes 4) service calls on my system.

Here’s the info I know about my house/system:

Furnace was replaced 2 years ago– Goodman brand.
Evaporator coil was also replaced 2 years ago (unsure of brand it is a A coil)
Outside Unit Trane XR11 2TTR1030A 2.5 ton 30,000 BTUH
House: 1 story ranch with basement 1000 sq foot built in 1964 and not much done to update it.– not a lot of windows but they aren’t great as far as energy efficiency.
It is a stacked unit in the basement.
4 cold air returns- two in basement at floor level and two in hallway along baseboards
Thermostat- Honeywell honeywell th6110d1005 focuspro programmable thermostat
Have ceiling fans in 3 rooms and each bedroom has an oscillating fan (house has 3 bedrooms 2 baths living room/kitchen great room.
Portable dehumidifier in basement draining into floor drain.

Here’s the story…

AC wasn’t cooling house. Checked filters, it was lying on its side and clean as a whistle so that means it had been running for a couple months with no filter. So my first guess was evaporator coil was filthy. I watched the Youtube videos- went out & bought coil cleaner & gave it a whirl saturated the evap coil & let it sit with the foam & them went outside to clean the pin coil… Outside was pretty nasty with cottonwoods so I completely took off the Hail Guard & sprayed it with coil cleaner & hosed it off and I got it clean as a whistle. Seemed to help for about a day– then it was HOT again.

Called HVAC tech (same company we’ve always used) he came out and did the following:
*checked the Freon said it was 70.1 PSI
*Checked the blower said it was on max
*Checked temp drop said it was 22 degrees…

BUT.. my cold air returns weren’t pulling air so he suggested duct cleaning.

Called Duct Cleaning Service- they came out. Had a LOT of dust and crap in vents. LOL they found mail from the ’80s in the return! (we have only owned the house since 03!) so I would say this was long past due. They said that with the amount of junk in the returns the A coil had to be filthy on the underside so we paid to have that cleaned. We were still not getting good airflow- they said they felt that the blower motor was going out.

Called back to HVAC company- pitched a fit & then sent the tech back. He rechecked everything & called Goodman to verify that …read more

Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Mobile Home LR (middle of home) hotter than rest?

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By doni49

I just bought a used mobile home. It’s the type with two small BR and 1 bath up front, then the LR, kitchen and then the master in the back. The HVAC system is in the hallway that leads from the kitchen to the master.

The LR register seems to have much less air flow than any other register in the home. Even the three registers at the front of the home have better air flow. But the LR register is between those three and the HVAC system so I don’t know what it could be.

I went in tonight and used aluminum duct tape to seal up any air leaks I could find in all the registers.

I’d love some advice.

TIA!

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Do I really need to replace this flex duct…or can I just be cheap?

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By allfy16

Our water heater blew last July and flooded our downstairs. My wife and I were both at work when it happened so there was a nonstop flow of water into our house for probably a good 6 hours. After ruining our ugly “straight out of the 80s” parquet floor, our “used to be white” vinyl kitchen, and our lovely 6 month old chestnut hardwoods in the living/dining rooms; the water proceeded to find our air registers on the ground and dump down into the HVAC ducts in the crawlspace. The water accumulated in one 6″ insulated flex duct and caused it to tear off of the register.

I got the house all dried out and the ducts cleaned, then went into the crawlspace and remembered that the duct was still down. I quickly realized that the insulation was still soaking wet and the duct needed replacing. Its other end was connected to the trunk line so I took it off the collar and planned to go to Lowes and replace it later that day. I didn’t want my AC pumping into the crawlspace until then so I looked around and happened to find the circular piece of the trunk line that was cut out in order to install the collar connection onto the trunk. So, using all the ingenuity I could muster I crammed the cut out into the collar, thus solving everything.

To make a long story short, I didn’t replace the duct that day and it’s been about a year since this happened. The cut out is still in place and when I looked at it today, I could only feel a tiny bit of cold air getting past the cut out. I haven’t noticed that my energy or gas bills have increased since then so I’m wondering if it’s even worth replacing the duct.

I only need 8ft. of 6 inch insulated flex duct, but Lowes and Home Depot only sell 25ft. at a time and it’s around $30 for just the duct. Then I have to buy mastic, HVAC tape, a worm clamp, supports, and zip ties. Only the worm clamp is cheap (about $2). And since you can’t buy small quantities of anything else or the product is just expensive ($11 for HVAC tape), I would be spending about $70 to fix something that I’m not convinced is a problem, and I would have a whole lot of extra material that I really doubt I would use anytime soon.

Since the duct connected to a return in our hallway near the front door, I don’t think I would notice its absence. And if I went into the crawlspace and really sealed up the collar (or removed it and sealed up the trunk), wouldn’t it be like there was never a hole there? Wouldn’t the AC/heater just blow the air that would have gone …read more

Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

What are key non-schedule settings options to have in tstat? (trying to decide)

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By agoldenbee

I’m looking to purchase a z-wave enabled tstat and have basically narrowed my selection to the following:

* Honeywell YTH8320ZW1007/U Z-Wave Enabled Programmable Thermostat
* 2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat
* Trane TZEMT400AB32MAA Home Energy Management Thermostat

The problem is I can’t determine which to get because of aesthetics partly (silly reason) but more importantly, they all seem to have different settings that complement each other but not such that one has all the options.

Which settings are most important to have in a tstat that will improve the efficiency and longevity of your HVAC system?

The 2GIG CT100 has very little to set:
* SWING – Setting and room temp variance before HVAC kicks in [from 0.5 to 4.0, default to 2.0]

Honeywell 8320 has more to set:
* 1st stage compressor cycle rate [from 1 to 6 times per hour, default to 3]
* 1st stage heat cycle rate [from 1 to 12 times per hour, default to 5 for gas]
* Auto changeover deadband [from 2 to 9 degrees, default to 3]
* Heat and cool temperature range stop (good for my kid and wife :P)

(I’ve read I should change the default to “Adaptive Intelligent recovery” of On to Off as it causes more headaches than helps)

Trane TZEMT400AB32MAA is somewhat similar:
* Min and max heat and cool setpoint values
* Minimum run time [1-9 minutes, defaults to 6]
* Minimum off time [5-9 minutes, defaults to 5]
* H/C Delta [3-15 degrees, similar to HW deadband]
* Delta at which cooling and heating stops and starts from setpoints

If the Trane had Cycles Per Hour, it would have more than the 2 others. Also, not sure how Honeywell controls the deltas from the setpoints at which it starts and stops heat and cold.

So is CPH more important (Honeywell) or controlling the delta from where the cool and heat start and stop from where you set them to the room temp?

Which has best “control” over how HVAC functions?

Thanks in advance.

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Just like a GFCI circuit only different

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By 94rider

I have a dehumidifier located remotely from the condensation pump. I would like to automatically disable the outlet from which the dehumidifier gets electricity in the event the condensation pump overflows.
The condensation pump has a standard moisture detector, with a 2 wire connector, which is intended to be used in HVAC situations. It can be configured to turn off a thermostat (break the circuit) or set off an alarm (complete the circuit).
Does anyone know of a switch which will allow me to disable this outlet in the event moisture is detected? I know that there are hot water heater shutoffs which shut down the water supply and the power, but I don’t want the water supply side of the switch.
Alternately is there any way to use the moisture detector switch to trip a GFCI circuit?

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Blower Motor slows after long cycle

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By handybutstumped

First off let me say thank you for providing this forum to help out us non-AC repair professionals.

I have a twenty-something year old International split system unit. It cools excellently when it works.

But here’s the problem: About a month ago I noticed that the house was getting warm. The outside compressor/fan unit was running fine but there was very little air coming out of the vents. I went under the house to inspect the blower fan and it was turning, although it did not appear to be at full speed. Without even thinking about the run cap, I assumed it was the blower motor itself. The motor was replaced the next day with a FASCO D721 ¼ hp, 1075 RPM, 3 speed motor. This motor called for a 5 MFD / 370 VAC cap, which was also replaced at the same time. The only difference was that they gave me a 5MFD / 440VAC cap (instead of 370 VAC), and they assured me that this cap would work fine and that the 470 VAC was simply the most that the cap could handle.

Anyway, the blower motor and cap were both replaced, and the AC seemed to work fine for about a week. A second problem then arose, in that the unit began to shut off before the thermostat told it to. If I had the thermostat set on 76 degrees, the entire unit might shut off at 78 or so. When I looked at the thermostat immediately after the unit stopped, it was flashing the compressor icon (as if it had experienced a power failure and now the compressor safety was engaged). The unit would then kick back in after the safety time had elapsed, but would only run for a period of time and then repeat this process.

After scratching my head for a few days, I then replaced the fan center itself, as the relay appeared to be getting hotter than it should have been getting (in my unprofessional opinion, anyway). This particular fan center contained the transformer for 24vDC power and the fan relay both mounted on a double gang electrical box plate/cover. The fan center was matched up value for value at the HVAC store and it was an exact replacement.

Now the entire unit has worked wonderfully for the last three weeks . . . until 2 days ago when I again noticed that there was very little air coming out of the vents (outside unit still chugging along faithfully). Since almost everything was practically brand new, I assumed that the run capacitor had failed. I got the exact replacement that the motor called for (5 MFD / 370 VAC) and replaced it 2 days ago. Just for grins and giggles, I also replaced the thermostat (only a 4 wire) at the same …read more

Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

2 yer old Goodman compressor dead?

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By Jaybroken

2010
1. Tweaker s were kind enough to recycle my copper.

2011

2. Brand new goodman with 2 year labor (Outside heat pump)
3. Old system R22, New system *Outside 410* (new valve upstairs)
4. Billed for “Clean out” Guessing it was NEVER done.
5. Compressor trips breaker, New breaker installed. Compressor works for 50 seconds trips breaker.
6. Outside unit tested from second HVAC man, Capacitor good.
*HVAC Man* tested unit for two hours, bypassed and ohm meter tested.
7. HVAC man determined compressor is “Froze Up”
8. HVAC man asked for $9,000

a. I managed to get him down to $3,000 if I change out the dirty coils in attic.
b. I found a new 4 tonn Goodman heat pump condenser on ebay for $1300 with 10 year parts ONLY warranty (I will have no labor warranty*

Possible ideas, try to RMA the compressor and have the local welder man install the unit after its been reclaimed of the 410 oil and gas.

Either way the HVAC man is suggesting it will break and break and break unless I change out all of the copper upstairs and down and said “I can burn $60 cans of cleaner all day and still get black oil coming out that will BREAK your new unit in 2 years.

So Im chasing my money, and im not wanting to get ripped off by either tweakers or lazy HVAC men who dont actually do the work well.

Source: DoItYourself.com

Automobiles

Official: New Mercedes Unimog debuts to the cheers of little boys everywhere [w/video]

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By Jonathon Ramsey

Filed under:

The Mercedes Unimog, the superhero villain of the off-road world that’s just waiting to make the jump to Transformer, has been completely upgraded for its new generation. There are ten models, expanding the range and getting new designations across the traditional all-terrain series and the implement-carrier series. Panoramic cabins get more visibility, multifunction steering wheels and better dash clusters, improved HVAC and a three-mode central tire inflation system. Outside, there are new items like LED headlights and daytime running lamps in the bumper, roof-mounted windshield wipers and a front-camera monitor for the implement carrier.

The new engine lineup is compliant with Euro VI, featuring four- and six-cylinder BlueEfficiency engines putting out anywhere from 156 horsepower to 354 hp. Powerplant placement has also been tweaked, the chassis members getting a revised curve to place the engine a bit further back and lower, maintaining off-road clearance and lowering the Unimog’s center of gravity. The new location of the engine means the cabin has more room, and the wheelbase is shorter. Combined with a higher turning angle, the Unimog has a smaller turning radius than before.

The implement carrier gets what’s called a “synergistic traveling drive,” the bonus being that drivers don’t need to stop in order to use an attachment – a hydrostatic transmission works with the regular manual transmission at up to 31 kilometers per hour for seamless switching.

Those are just a tiny number of the changes in the new Unimogs. You can find out enough about them in the two videos and three press releases below to become a certified dealer.

Continue reading New Mercedes Unimog debuts to the cheers of little boys everywhere [w/video]

New Mercedes Unimog debuts to the cheers of little boys everywhere [w/video] originally appeared on Autoblog on Sat, 27 Apr 2013 17:01:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Source: FULL ARTICLE at Autoblog

Do it yourself

new chimney liner – real need or scam?

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By Tuffy0317

My husband and I bought a 1939 row house in Northern Virginia in November. During the home inspection, it was revealed that we needed to have the cement crown and some of the mortar joints on our chimney replaced, in addition to having a rain cap installed. We’ve been getting estimates from brick masons for the job, which have all ranged around the same price.

Today we had a chimney specific company come out to give us an estimate and he said that, in addition to the work we knew we needed, the flue is in horrible shape and we need to have a stainless steeler liner installed (he is the first person to mention this). Our gas furnace and hot water heater both vent into the chimney (no fireplace or other appliances do – we have a split HVAC system) and he said that when both are on and running, there’s a real chance that we could get CO2 poisoning or have serious condensation issues in the house. When I pressed him on that (because it sounded like he was trying to scare us), he admitted that those were rare cases, but that it was a 74 year old chimney that needs to be addressed. He wrote in our proposal that “the furnace flue is not safe to use in its current state.”

We know the mortar and cement crown need to be done before our roof is replaced, so those things will be taken care of soon. But how desperate is the situation with the flue? We’re lucky that since we’re entering warmer months, we won’t be using the furnace again until October, buying us some time to figure things out. He kept saying that the flue was “against” code – but it’s a 74 year old house, there’s a lot of things against current code (like the huge step on our front porch).

Thoughts? We want to be smart, but obviously don’t want to spend money needlessly. He quoted us a price of $3300 to do all the brick work and the chimney liner. He quoted us a price of $2450 to just do the liner, $1200 to just do the brick work.

Thanks!

Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Need suggestion on waterproofing shower

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By ukrbyk

Well, here I am again with our small shower issue.

I had this discussed about a year ago, in electrical appliances.
Problem is, it’s a small shower room with no HVAC vent in it. Single double pane window. Ceiling fan.
It’s shower normally used by my son, who showers long and hot, steam all over.

Basically, there is so much humidity condensation inside that small room, that walls had mildew all over them, and fast. I installed powerful Panasonic humidity sensing fan, but that did not help much. Also, even when not used, that fan was kicking in continuously, as it’s overall quite humid here in Seattle area.

I had walls repainted twice, but mildew keeps coming back, simply because condensate drips down the walls after showering.

Out of desperation, I told him to start using our master bedroom shower room. Of course, that results in continuous overlaps and situations.

At this point, I need suggestion on how to refurbish that shower room to let him back in.

My idea is simple. Cut additional HVAC floor vent in for winter times into the floor, maybe even have duct fan added.
Next, I think, simply tiling floor and walls.
Questions are:

1. With that much condensate inside, will it keep rotting underneath the tile?
2. I know there supposed to be cement board installed, for tiling. Do we have to strip current drywall then? Room is rather small, if not tiny, and adding anything on top of current drywall will steal a lot of its size.
3. Is there something like a water sealing film or backing that needs to be added before tiling?
As outside of full tiling, I do not see another way of stopping this madness.

From: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/designing-kitchens-bathrooms/493730-need-suggestion-waterproofing-shower.html

Do it yourself

Any zone controllers do this

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By caster

I want to zone my HVAC. The zoning is to satisfy heating ONLY (not concerned about cooling) a newly finished area.

Zone 1 – Existing Area

Zone 2 – Newly Finished Area

I want a controller that if Zone 1 ever calls for heat, it will close the damper to zone 2 and statisfy zone 1. Only when zone 1 is not calling, zone 2 can be heated.

Thanks

From: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/thermostatic-controls/493520-any-zone-controllers-do.html

Automobiles

Cadillac ELR’s Paddle Shifters Operate Regenerative Braking, Not Gear Changes

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By John Lamm

The planetary transmission of Chevrolet’s Volt leaves little reason to have paddle shifters on the steering column of the extended-range electric car, but that’s not stopped Cadillac from equipping its Voltec-powered ELR with a pair of steering-wheel-mounted paddles—albeit with a new mission. Naturally, the ELR will have regenerative brakes to capture energy for its lithium-ion battery pack, but it will also have what Cadillac is calling Regen on Demand. Under deceleration, the driver can pull on either of the paddles to increase the regenerative braking and slow the ELR still more.

On the off chance an ELR owner happens to be hot-lapping the luxury electric, operating the paddles would be similar to downshifting as the driver approaches a corner. This doesn’t really have a major effect on driving, but it does give the driver something to do. As ELR chief engineer Chris Thomason points out, “This allows the drive to take [a] more active role in the electric-vehicle driving experience.” As long as we’re listing features that would allow the driver to take a more active role in the electric-vehicle driving experience, might we suggest audio and HVAC controls with real knobs?

From: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/caranddriver/blog/~3/cH9TOCa4Vv8/

Do it yourself

Help with heat pump thermostat replacement (Honeywell RTH3100C)

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By priestea

When I tried to turn on my AC a few days ago, it wasn’t working. The fan came on for a couple seconds but then turned off and wouldn’t turn on again. I had an HVAC guy come out and he told me the thermostat needed to be replaced and that I needed a heat pump thermostat.

After buying a Honeywell RTH3100C, I disconnected the wires, individually taped and marked each one (I had W2, Y1, G, O, R, and C wires). I then followed the instructions and rewired into the new thermostat. I finished the installation, set up the thermostat to electric aux and em. heat, turned everything back on, waited 5 minutes, and……nothing. Neither the heat nor the AC would turn on. I then went back and realized I had accidentally put the blue wire into B instead of C. Could this have blown a fuse or wrecked the whole thermostat? After realizing it I put the blue wire into C and tried to see if it would work then and still nothing.

Any help would be great! This is my first time ever replacing a thermostat so I really only know what the technician told me when he came out (and gave me instructions for replacing the thermostat and which kind I should get). I appreciate any advice you guys can give me.

From: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/heat-pumps-electric-home-heating/493201-help-heat-pump-thermostat-replacement-honeywell-rth3100c.html

Do it yourself

Deck Skirting 'On' Ground Options?

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By Tony Burgess

Hey DIYers ..

I’ve been studying the forums here, and endlessly searching the web. I’m about to embark on building a wooden deck over my roughly 20′ x 15′ concrete slab that is my back porch.

The overall plan of doing so seems very simple. The idea is to make it a two part process and build the deck with 4×4 attached posts to later add a covered pergola over top. So far, I’ve found every bit of information on how to do this — perfection.

Here’s my dilemma though — on the back end of the concrete slab is the house — no problem there, to the left is a HVAC unit and a path leading outward — again, no issue with any skirting. The right side has a downward slope and the front goes directly out nearly level with the ground.

Essentially, the front right side is at ground level, and the back right side is actually about 3″ lower than the bottom of the slab (meaning I can see the dirt below the slab in the back).

My ‘idea’ was to trench out the ground around the front and ride sides of the slab and build the skirting to go 1/2″ out past the slab (for drainage) and essentially have it sitting in the trench, which would give it a finished look all around. I figured some quick gravel in the trenches would allow for any additional drainage, but then ultimately, the PT would be ‘touching’ the ground area just outside the trench..

Does anyone have any insight or ideas on how to do this, and make it look good without sacrificing the wood damage over time? .. While the front of the slab is no bother, that right side with the slope is going to be an issue making the front and side tie in together, and still covering the major slope.

From: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/decks-patios-porches-docks/493182-deck-skirting-ground-options.html