Tag Archives: OSB

Do it yourself

Wire for sub-panel

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By jnnewton

I need to add a sub panel in my attached garage. The reason being that I’m out of breaker slots on my main 200A panel due to the fact that I currently have 6 circuits running to the garage 2x 30A 115 for the heaters (4 heaters @ 12.5A), 2 115 for two sets of outlets (so i can run the bandsaw while using other tools without blowing a breaker), 1 for the AC, 1 for 230VAC (mill). I need to add two more, and one in the basement, so i think it’s time. I’ve decided that a 100A subpanel would give me plenty of room to add dedicated circuits (I have a few pieces of equipment on my wish list)

Q1: I have plenty of 4AWG CU wire, but cannot find a definitive answer as to whether it’s legal. Here’s the marking: “4AWG E51293(UL) MTW OR THW OR AWM 1232/1283/1337 600V VW-1 — LL22035 CSA TEW OR AWM 0 600V 105C W750C FT1 I A/E” Can anyone tell me if this is legal wire for feeding the subpanel L1, L2 & N? If not, I’ll just go to HD and get whatever they tell me is the preferred wire, but I’d rather not spend the $$$ if I don’t have to.

Q2: The wall it’s going on is the one that separates the garage and the house. Once I attach some wood (whatever I can find that is sturdy) to the wall, mount the box, and pull the feed wire into the garage, I feel it will be unprotected from me dragging stuff around, carrying metal, etc. I could drill holes back through the wall (2x 3/4″ OSB + 3/4″ drywall), and then route through the walls, but I know that wall is some sort of firewall of sorts, and am not sure the code on drilling several holes in it. Is this OK? I really want to encase it in a cabinet as well, but I’ve read this violates code (no cabinets, countertops, etc). Is there a better way to protect / hide it that is legal?

Q3: I have an odd back 3ft of the garage, in that I cannot run wiring from the walls to the attic / ceiling without drilling through an I-beam (which I won’t do). I have cabinets along one side and around the corner. They are against a footer on the side, and matched distance on the back. so not all the way against the wall. Is it legal to use that area between the cabinet and the wall, on top of the footer / floor as a “wireway” to avoid tearing out tons of drywall to drill through studs and run wire horizontally?

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Adhesive to glue on shinlges

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By jehaz

Hi,

I am putting a roof on a chicken house. The roof is a single slope of 8’x16′.
I have felt and house shingles from home depot, and OSB sheathing.

Rather than being normal and using a nailgun, I want to be abnormal and use adhesive.

This is because the nails that stick out through the inside of the roof will hurt the chickens who have access to the loft space.

What adhesive should I use? Home Depot recommended outdoor carpet adhesive for boats, but when I went to the carpet section the man told me that because shingles are non-porous it would never dry.

I dont really want to buy roof patch/sealant/cement, because thats really thick and not made to be a glue but a waterproof barrier in its own right.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
James

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Source: DoItYourself.com

Do it yourself

Side Attic Ventilation

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By alferz

Hey all, looking for some advice for ventilation in my 1935 bungalow style 1 1/2 story house. Currently the small side attics have no ventilation at all and being in Sacramento, California the heat upstairs is stifling, and ventilation is one of the things I want to improve to mitigate that. The second story has 4 separate side attic areas separated from the living space by knee walls that are insulated and air sealed. I want to cut in vents in the siding under the eave (no soffits) for intake but I need help deciding how to do the exhaust vents. I know in a perfect world I would use a ridge vent, however the house has a 17 year old roof over OSB sheathing, and whoever installed it did not include any air baffles in the cathedral ceiling (there are R-13 or maybe R-19 batts, but there is no space for air movement between the sheetrock, batts, and OSB sheathing). So my plan is to place the exhaust vent in the side attic itself, which is well away from the ridge since I’m really not in a position to tear the ceiling apart to install a ridge vent. Is it best to use gable vents, or use one roof vent at the highest point in the middle of each side attic? My concern with the gable vent, is that I would only be able to vent one side of the attic and there would be little to no cross breeze. I calculated my net free vent area needed for the 4 attics as 120, 84, 64 and 58 sq inches split between intake and exhaust using the 1/150 rule. Anyone have a suggestion on how best to vent these spaces? Should I even vent them at all?

From: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/basements-attics-crawl-spaces/493513-side-attic-ventilation.html

Do it yourself

Advice on Vapor Barrier for 2nd story roof (interior) and lower story floor.

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By badkyd

Hello all. I’m redoing a circa 1900 home in central wisconsin. I’ve read a lot of confusing information about vapor/moisture barriers. The following is my situation and I’m soliciting the advice of the good people of this forum. I’m using the term ‘vapor barrier’ for everything although I understand that there is some difference between barrier and retarder that escapes me.

1) My roof has 3 layers of cedar shake topped by shingles. Looks like there is felt under the shake. I’m guessing the roof is 30 years old, but it doesnt leak so I’m not messing with it now. I’ve pulled all the lathe & plaster off the interior walls and pulled out all the blown in insulation in the 2nd floor ceiling. Based on the way the ceiling lays, its going to be much easier to put in batts instead of blown in insulation. My question is whether I should worry about putting in a vapor barrier between my trusses and the drywall, or can i just put in unfaced batts and then put my drywall up? If I need a vapor barrier, should i use felt, or can I use Tyvek housewrap? I have access to an endless supply of free Tyvek. Should I put up the batts (unfaced), vapor barrier (tyvek or other), and then my drywall? Or do I not even need to worry about the vapor barrier since I have felt under the shingles already?

2) Home has a full field stone and poured concrete basement under the majority of the home, except for one section that has a 4′ crawl space with gravel floor. I’ve put in 3/4″ subfloors already and am getting ready to put in laminate and tile flooring on the first floor. Do i need a vapor barrier for this floor or not? Again, can I staple some Tyvek housewrap on top of the 3/4″ OSB that I layed as subfloor before I drop down the underlayment for the tile? For the section that I plan to put laminate, I’m putting another 1/2 plywood floor overtop of the 3/4″ OSB to get the floor up to equal height with the tiled area (using 1/2 cement board underlayment under the tiled area. If not Tyvek, what else would work, felt again? Also, should that vapor barrier (if needed) go under the 3/4″ OSB, or is it OK to sandwich it between the OSB and either the cement board or the plywood I play to lay down? One thing to note, when I pulled up the old subfloor, I noted that there was frost under subfloor boards, so it is definately getting moisture from somewhere.

Thoughts and comments welcome!

From: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/insulation-radiant-vapor-barriers/493487-advice-vapor-barrier-2nd-story-roof-interior-lower-story-floor.html

Do it yourself

Making a bed frame – anyone see any issues?

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By Griphus

My wife and I can’t find a bed frame we like, so I designed one in SketchUp.

I’d like to do a sanity check before I start building it. Particularly joint stability, sagging, and whether a 1 inch lip on the frame will be enough to keep the matress from working itself off the frame over time.

Matress is a queen size tempurpedic (~150 pounds). My wife and I together are around 300 pounds, so 450 total.

Some looks at the design are attached – this is using 4×4’s, 2×2’s, 2×4’s, 1×8’s, and 1/4 inch OSB on top the 2×4 slats.

Thanks in advance for any help / discussion!

Timothy

Attached Images

Source: DoItYourself.com