Source: houzz
The phrase green thumb comes from gardening. When a person is really in tune with their garden plants, they often rub off nubs which will become branches in the wrong place, or pull out small, tender weeds before they grow to be pest-sized, thus ending up with green-stained fingers and thumbs. In our community, such tuned-in consciousness can help us grow and thrive. When one sees or hears a comment heading into negative territory, each of us can perhaps take a moment to ask the commenter more about their situation. Maybe they have encountered a bug, or just don’t see how to choose to do what they need to get their task done. If you are a developer, maybe their difficulty can guide you toward a better user interface! If you do documentation, their questions and difficulties might help you explain the software more clearly. Perhaps the person is feeling bad for some other reason entirely. In any case, by asking for more information, you will effectively have turned what could have turned into a “trollish” situation, into a pleasant personal interaction and maybe more. Of course not all of us have the time or feel like spending our time being tuned in all the time. Which is why I urge each of my readers to take your turn by doing this part of the time. Our list moderators, IRC channel operators, and forum admins get tired, have vacations and other time off, and so forth. We can all be leaders of the community part-time, in this gentle, non-confrontational way. If you’re good at it, and enjoy it, maybe it’s time to volunteer to help moderate a list, become one of the channel operators, or help administer the forums. It is not necessary to have an official leadership position though, to exercise leadership. Perhaps you would like to become part of the KDE Community Working Group?[1] We have a need for a new team member right now. See the KDE-Community list for more information.[2] And see the Freenode Catalysts page [3] for more details about this mode of leadership. The Ubuntu 1. Community Working Group: http://ev.kde.org/workinggroups/cwg.php 2. KDE-Community list: https://mail.kde.org/mailman/listinfo/kde-community 3. Be a Catalyst: http://freenode.net/catalysts.shtml …read more
Source: FULL ARTICLE at Planet Ubuntu
No gardener is immune to the
agony of watching their garden getting eaten away by insects that seem
invisible, rodents that steal in the night and the plant disease that
appears out of nowhere.
We have all been there. Whether the holes in the cabbage plants seem to
get larger by the second, or squash bugs infiltrate the zucchini plants
by the thousands, these unforeseen circumstances can arise at anytime
for any gardener.
While weather, that force of nature you have no control over, can play a
factor in a lot of the plant diseases you may face, you can take some
steps in helping put more of that control back into your hands, as well
as rule over the harmful insects that will arise.
Here are three homemade recipes you can put together yourself to help you with your efforts.
Compost/Manure Tea
This is a great recipe to use. You simply fill a burlap sack with a
gallon of compost or well seasoned manure and drop it into a bucket
containing 4 gallons of water. Cover the bucket and let it sit for 72
hours. Once complete, remove the burlap sack, pour the mixture into a
watering can or a sprayer, and use on your vegetation. This works
great as a fertilizer for your plants and when sprayed on foliage, it
helps prevent many types of diseases.
Baking Soda Spray
If you are looking for an easy to make spray that helps prevent and
manage various plant diseases such as powdery mildew, then try this one.
Simply mix one and a half tablespoons of baking soda, a tablespoon of
vegetable oil and one and a half gallons of warm water in large
container. Mix thoroughly. Make sure the mixture is well blended
prior to pouring it into a sprayer. Use this right away while the water
is warm.
Garlic/Pepper Spray
At a local garden center here where I live, they sell a commercially
made organic pepper spray. These types of sprays work great for keeping
a lot of insects and rodents off your vegetation. There are but two
downfalls. First, it has to be applied after every time your plants are
watered, regardless of whether you are doing the watering or mother
nature. Second, because you will use a lot of it, sprays purchased at
the store can get expensive over time. So instead make your own.
Using a blender, food processor etc., mix together eight cloves of
garlic, one and a half tablespoons of cayenne pepper (or another very
hot pepper variety), and three and a half cups of hot water. Mix these
ingredients thoroughly and allow the mixture to steep for seventy-two
hours. Strain the mix as you pour it into your sprayer, then use on
your plants you are …read more
Source: Mike the Gardener
Source: houzz
By Regina Schrambling I was also presented with amazing alderwood-smoked salt and some super-aromatic New Mexican chile powder, so I can’t whinge that my consort went to Santa Fe and all I got was a couple of postcards. They’re pretty great, too: Georgia O’Keeffe making a stew and pouring tea at her ranch back in the early Sixties. Bob was regretting not buying a cookbook, but I reminded him I already own it, thanks to a good friend, and it’s pretty great, too. O’Keeffe’s art and very long life have always fascinated me, and her cooking/gardening side is just as intriguing. According to this book, by her onetime caretaker, Margaret Wood, she started to grow her own fruits, vegetables and herbs because the alternative required a 70-mile drive over dirt roads to the nearest store. And she used them every day in every way. The recipes are a great mix of healthful (O’Keeffe was quite taken with contemporary nutrition theories) and indulgent, and they reflect where she lived. If you’re in New Mexico, you develop a taste for enchiladas and posole. Some of the more unusual recipes are for fried locust blossoms and for a garlic sandwich: Slice baguette, butter and pave with garlic slices. Top with second slice. I hadn’t read this book in years, and what really strikes me today is how modern it feels. Local, seasonal, organic were all adjectives for O’Keeffe’s food; her staff dried or canned what couldn’t be used fresh, and she even ground her own wheat to bake her own bread. She lived to nearly 100, so that may be the right recipe.
Source: Epicurious
Source: houzz
Source: houzz
Even with a heavy dose of
proper composting, many factors can lead to your plants becoming
deficient in valuable nutrients. Too much rain could wash away valuable
nitrogen, and not enough rain, well, could lead to a whole lot of other
problems.
Here are some popular signs that you should be looking out for in your vegetable garden, their causes, and potential solutions.
Are the leaves on your vegetable plants light green to yellow? Does the
growth of your plant seem stunted? Chances are your soil lacks
nitrogen and/or sulfur. A good quick fix is adding blood meal or fish emulsion.
Speaking of the leaves, are they red or purple when they are supposed to
be green? Looks like your soil is low on Phosphorous. Add some bonemeal or rock phosphate to your soil.
If your vegetable plants are producing fruits have you noticed if they
are too small or production seems to be slow? Your soil may lack
magnesium or potassium. Greensand, Epsom salt, wood ash or seaweed are
all helpful answers.
A lot of the same symptoms noted above will appear for the lack of other
nutrients such as iron, copper, and manganese. You should get a soil
reading if you starting seeing a lot of issues. Your local co-op can do
this for you or they sell home kits where you can test the soil yourself.
Source: Mike the Gardener
By Stephanie
Tomato leaves may roll for three main reasons: physiological stress, viruses, or herbicide damage. Of the three, physiological stress is the easiest to remedy.
Physiological stress refers to anything in the environment that is not optimal for tomatoes: too much or too little water, high winds, fertilizer burn, root damage, and transplant shock. The rolling first appears on the lower leaves and involves cupping inward. However, the leaves retain their green color. They may become leathery and thickened. Over time, all the leaves of the plant may be effected.
The most common time for leaf curl from physiological stress is as spring turns into summer. Vine tomatoes seem more vulnerable to leaf curl than do bush tomatoes.
Fortunately, this condition has minimal impact on tomato production. The tomato plant can recover if you maintain a consistent moisture level, are careful not to over fertilize (expecially with nitrogen), protect the root zone of the tomato and properly harden off seedlings. It will probably continue to produce fruit even if the leaves do not uncurl, and new growth will be normal if the stressful situations are eliminated.
The second most common reason for tomato leaf roll is a virus. There are two main tomato viruses that cause leaf roll.
Tomato yellow leaf curl virus causes new leaves to become cupped and pale green in color. The entire plant may be stunted, show yellowing leaf edge, purplish veins on the undersides of leaves, and a decline in fruit production.
A second kind of virus, tomato mosaic virus, also causes rolling of the leaves. However, it causes mottled-coloring of leaves, small leaflets, and internal browning of infected fruit.
There is no cure for either of these viruses. If your tomato plant has them, the best thing to do is to pull the plant and destroy it. Do not compost it as this might spread the virus. The goal here is to contain the virus to as few plants as possible before it spreads. These viruses are spread by insects feeding on an infected plant, then moving to a healthy plant to feed and infecting it.
Weeds often act as reservoirs of disease for tomato plants so the elimination of weeds around the garden reduces the incidence of tomato viruses. There are no sick plants for the insects to feed on and spread the virus to your healthy tomato plants. Disinfecting tools used on weeds and diseased tomatoes before using them on healthy tomato plants can also prevent the spread of the virus.
The third most common reason for leaf curl is herbicide damage. When a tomato plant is exposed to the herbicide 2,4,D, leaves curl downward (as opposed to upward for physiological stress). In addition, the vine may turn white and split and the fruit may be deformed. The plant may not survive the herbicide exposure. However, if it survives, new growth should be normal. Always be careful when using herbicides to prevent drift and other accidental exposure to desirable plants.
Source: Weekend Gardener
Mantidae |
|
Mantidae is the largest family of the order Mantodea, commonly known as praying mantises; most are tropical or subtropical. Historically, this was the only family in the order, and many references still use the term “mantid” to refer to any mantis. Technically, however, “mantid” refers only to members of the Mantidae Many species are found in North America, the three most common being the |
Treatment |
| This is a beneficial insect. Do not treat! |
| Click here for the original Source |
Source: Mike the Gardener
A compost pile is a staple for
most home vegetable gardeners. Compost is the easiest, safest and best
way to add nutrients to your soil which allow your fruits, herbs and
veggies to grow bigger and produce more.
Along the way you may encounter some issues with your compost. Most are
easily fixable with some simple solutions, or a little bit of “elbow
grease”. Here I will discuss the most common compost pile issues you
will face along the way, and their popular solutions.
Your Compost Pile Stinks
This is the most common compost pile issue for home vegetable gardeners.
Your compost pile smells to high heaven and if you lived in the middle
of nowhere, you would really care less, but since your neighbor does
not share that same sentiment, it’s an issue that needs to be addressed.
Most of the time the smell is due to lack of air. If your pile becomes
too wet or too compacted, anaerobic bacteria become abundant which
accounts for the smell. Too a much lesser extent, your pile could also
lack nitrogen and if your pile has an ammonia smell that means it has
too much nitrogen.
All of these issues are fixable. If your compost pile is compacted,
simply use a pitchfork and manually turn the pile over. If your compost
pile has become too wet or smells of ammonia, add straw or shredded
brown paper bags (leaves or wood chips would be more ideal) and turn
your compost pile with your pitchfork as noted earlier.
Animals and unwanted Insects
From time to time you will notice your compost pile attracts squirrels,
chipmunks and other insects. This is not necessarily a bad thing.
However, if you start seeing rats, mice and roaches, there is something
wrong. Chances are if you are experiencing these types of pests, you
have added something to the pile you should not have, and that would be
meat and/or dairy products. Do not add these to your compost pile.
Remove these items from your compost pile and discard in your regular
trash.
Not breaking down
You are taking care of your compost pile as you should, however you
notice that some items are simply not breaking down. This could be due
to a couple of reasons. If they are items that would normally break
down, i.e. food scraps, leaves etc., your compost pile could be lacking
in nitrogen and/or moisture. If the compost pile is dry, add water and
turn the compost pile over with your pitchfork. If nitrogen is the
issue, add either manure (horse, chicken or cow etc) or fresh grass
clippings and turn.
The second problem could simply be the item is just too large for your
compost pile. Large branches from trees and bushes …read more
Source: Mike the Gardener
By Stephanie
Hardy gloxinia (Incarvillea delavayi) is also known as Chinese trumpet flower. It is from Southwestern China. The scientific name for this species, delavayi, is after an 18th century Jesuit monk who first described the plant scientifically.
This plant has short, deeply divided, fernlike green leaves and pink trumpet shaped flowers with a yellow throat. The flowers grow on tall stalks. They bloom from late spring through late summer if deadheaded regularly. These flowers are good for color accents in flower beds, borders, or in rock gardens. Because the large tap root needs good drainage, hardy gloxinia grows best in raised beds or rock gardens.
Hardy gloxinia grows in zones 5-7. Some literature says they will also grow in zones 8-10, but they are not tolerant of the extreme heat of the summers in those zones. While hardy gloxinia should be planted in full sun in zones 5-7, it should be planted in a place that has afternoon shade in zones 8-10.
Hardy gloxinia is a perennial. It may be grown as an annual in zones where the winters are too cold for the plants to survive.
Till the ground to a depth of six inches and add three inches of compost. This should provide the drainage and room for the tap root this plant requires. Plants can be grown from seed or from crowns. If you grow from crowns, plant the crown six inches under the soil and cover. Plant the crowns twenty-four inches apart as the plants can be 12-18 inches tall and 16-18 inches wide. Pleant after all danger of frost has passed. Water in. Water consistently during the growing season, keeping the soil moist but never soaked. In the winter, water sparingly.
To grow from seed, sprinkle the seed on the ground where you want the plants to grow in the autumn or the spring. The seed needs light to germinate so do not cover it with soil. Germination takes 25-30 days. As the seeds start to grow, thin as needed. Seeds will bloom the following year if planted in the spring.
To maintain these delicate plants, mulch the crowns in the winter. Remove the mulch after all danger of frost is past. The plants are relatively late to emerge after the winter, and the crowns are very delicate, so mark where you plant them. Water regularly during the growing season as these plants are from areas that receive regular rain. Fertilize monthly while blooming with a balanced fertilizer.
Hardy gloxinia are self seeding, so if you do not want them to spread, remove the seed heads before they open. Eventually, the plants will divide enough that they become too crowded. When that happens, you carefully divide the plants in the spring after they bloom. Make sure you get all of the taproot when you dig up the plants to divide them. The tap roots can make division difficult because they are so long.
Hardy gloxinia are vulnerable to snails and slugs. Otherwise, they are fairly pest free.
Source: Weekend Gardener
Reduviidae |
|
Reduviidae (from the contained genus, Reduvius, which comes from the Latin reduvia, meaning “hangnail” or “remnant”) is a large, cosmopolitan family of predatory insects in the suborder Heteroptera. It includes assassin bugs (genera include Melanolestes, Platymeris, Pselliopus, Rasahus, Reduvius, Rhiginia, Sinea, Triatoma, and Zelus), ambush bugs (subfamily Phymatinae), wheel bugs (Arilus cristatus), and thread-legged bugs (the subfamily Emesinae, including the genus Emesaya). There are about 7000 species altogether, making it one of the largest families in the Hemiptera. |
Treatment |
| This is a beneficial insect. DO NOT TREAT! |
| Click here for the original Source |
Source: Mike the Gardener
By Mindy
Spider mites can take a terrible toll on house and landscape plants. But before you drag out the sprayer and fill it with a toxic soup, consider treating the problem with an organic pest control technique.
Recognizing Spider Mites
Spider mites are little creatures that are very difficult to see with the naked eye but their presence found in spider webs and white and/or yellow spots dotting the foliage. In worse case situations, the plant will become defoliated.
The reason for this destruction is due to how the animal feeds. It simply sucks out the juices of the leaves, which contain chlorophyll. Areas that have been attacked appear as white or yellow spots depending on how much chlorophyll has been removed.
To find these little creatures, one must look at the underside of leaf but as stated before, they are very difficult to see with the naked eye. To help identify the pest, one must place a sheet of white paper underneath a branch or leaf and gently shake. Once that is done, pull out the magnifying glass and study the paper. Spider mites will show up as little dots with eight legs. These dots can be green, brown or red in color. If you happen to see some dots with two spots then you have the very aggressive twospotted spider mite, which is a very big problem.
Treatment
Once you have identified the pest you can begin with the treatment process. The first line of defense is to protect your plants. Spider mites hit plants that have been weakened through dehydration and/or nutrient deficiency. To prevent this, make sure that your plants are watered properly and fed as needed.
Environmental factors such as dry, dusty areas are favorite places for spider mites to hide and if plants are in these locations, they will quickly be fed upon.
Once you have spider mites, the treatment can occur in four ways. In some situations all three ways will need to be used to get the situation under control.
Removing the Plant and/or Branches
If possible remove any damaged plant material and place in a plastic bag. Tie off the bag and dispose of it in the trash. This will prevent the spider mites on these plants and/or branches from spreading throughout the garden.
If this is not possible, there are two other techniques that can be used on larger or more valuable plants.
Spraying with Rosemary Oil
Rosemary is poisonous to harmful spider mite. To use this technique, spray rosemary oil or a pesticide with a rosemary base on the plant material. Prior to spraying the entire plant, test on a small area.
Spraying with Dish Soap
A spray solution of 3 tablespoons of dish soap to 1 gallon of water can be mixed up and applied to the plant. Repeat 6 days later. This process works by suffocating the spider mite.
Beneficial Insects
There are several beneficial insects that love to feed on spider mites. This includes lady beetles, predator mites, and sixspotted thrives.
Source: Weekend Gardener
Tobacco mosaic virus |
|
Tobacco mosaic virus (TMV) is a positive-sense single stranded RNA virus that infects plants, especially tobacco and other members of the family Solanaceae. The infection causes characteristic patterns, such as “mosaic”-like mottling and discoloration on the leaves (hence the name). TMV was the first virus to ever be discovered. Although it was known from the late 19th century that an infectious disease was damaging tobacco crops, it was not until 1930 that the infectious agent was determined to be a virus. |
Treatment |
|
One of the common control methods for TMV is sanitation, which includes removing infected plants, and washing hands in between each planting. Crop rotation should also be employed to avoid infected soil/seed beds for at least two years. As for any plant disease, looking for resistant strains against TMV may also be advised. Furthermore, the cross protection method can be administered, where the stronger strain of TMV infection is inhibited by infecting the host plant with mild strain of TMV, similar to the effect of a vaccine. |
| Click here for the original Source |
Source: Mike the Gardener
root rot |
| disease characterized by root decay; caused by various fungi. |
Treatment |
| It is usually lethal and there is no effective treatment. |
| Click here for the original Source |
Source: Mike the Gardener
By Mindy
A rain chain is a great addition to any landscape design. It addresses the sound element that many landscapes are lacking. While you can purchase a rain chain, they can be expensive. Instead, consider making a simple one from very simple materials that will add personality and memories to any garden space.
To begin this project, one must first gather the supplies. The basic materials for this simple rain chain consists of a collection of rocks, small rings or fishing swivels, a hook for the top, and wire.
As far as the rocks go, take a walk and collect those that speak to you. If you find large rocks, increase the size of the wire and vice versa for small rocks. If you want to enhance the look of the rocks, paint them and/or apply a coat of shellac.
The first step in process begins with the wrapping of the rocks with the wire. You want enough wire around each rock so that the weight of the rock is supported but also you want it to have a designer look. This can be achieved by wrapping the wire in different directions and/or using an assortment of colored wires.
Once that is done, line up the rocks into a pattern that is pleasing to you. After you have your design laid out, begin assembling the design by attaching wire rings between each rock and attaching them to each other. If you want a little movement, use fishing swivels instead of rings.
Now, add the hook to the top of the rain chain and hang it from the gutter. Please note that for a rain chain to work the downspout must be removed. The rain chain is then hung under the opening so that the water from the gutter can hit the rain chain.
If you have a rain barrel, consider removing the downspout and hang the rain chain its place. Just make sure that the end of the rain chain goes into the rain barrel.
On the other hand, if your rain chain’s water is just going to hit the ground, consider laying down a catchment or pebbles to slow down the water flow and prevent soil erosion. This can be as simple as a stack of stones or as elaborate as a small pond. Regardless of how you decide to slow the water down, always make sure that the water is diverted away from the house.
Source: Weekend Gardener
pow·der·y mil·dew |
| Mildew on a plant that is marked by a white floury covering consisting of conidia. |
Treatment |
|
Controlling the disease involves eliminating conducive conditions as much as possible by altering planting density and carefully timing applications and rates of nitrogen. Since nitrogen fertilizers encourage dense leafy growth, nitrogen should be applied at precise rates, less than 70 pounds per acre, to control decrease severity. Crop rotation with non-host plants is another way to keep mildew infection to a minimum, however the aerial nature of conidia and ascospore dispersal makes it of limited use. Wheat powdery mildew can also be controlled by eliminating the presence of volunteer wheat in agricultural fields as well as tilling under crop residues. |
| Click here for the original Source |
Source: Mike the Gardener
blossom end rot |
|
Calcium (Ca) deficiency is a plant disorder that can be caused by insufficient calcium in the growing medium, but is more frequently a product of low transpiration of the whole plant or more commonly the affected tissue. |
Treatment |
|
Calcium deficiency can sometimes be rectified by adding agricultural lime to acid soils, aiming at a pH of 6.5, unless the subject plants specifically prefer acidic soil. Organic matter should be added to the soil to improve its moisture-retaining capacity. However, because of the nature of the disorder (i.e. poor transport of calcium to low transpiring tissues), the problem cannot generally be cured by the addition of calcium to the roots. In some species, the problem can be reduced by prophylactic spraying with calcium chloride of tissues at risk. |
| Click here for the original Source |
Source: Mike the Gardener
By Mindy
Do you have a spot in your landscape that stays wet? Or are you looking for a plant that is low mainentace and looks good? Well if either one these situations apply to your garden space, then I have the plant for you.
Bog rosemary is a wonderful evergreen shrub that is powdery blue in color year round. In the spring, urn-shaped white flowers with a tinge of pick appear. The needle like leaves along with its multi-branched nature allows this plant to standout especially in monochromatic landscapes.
When you plan to use this plant, study the area carefully. Bog rosemary does wonderful in bogs, swamps, and alongside ponds. It can even tolerate some standing water. While this plant is flexible in its moisture requirement, it is inflexible in its pH requirement. Bog rosemary requires a soil pH on the acidic side. Once you have the plant in the ground, if the leaves begin to yellow this is an indication that the soil is not acidic enough. If this is the case, mulch the area with pine needles.
When planting in urban environments, monitor the leaf health. While this plant can tolerate some urban pollination, planting in highly polluted areas can be detrimental to the plant. If you notice the leaves changing colors, consider planting in a different location.
When planting your bog rosemary, make sure to dig the hole at least twice the width and height of the container it has come in. If you are dealing with clay soils, do not forget to scrap the sides to prevent glazing before moving on to the next step.
After the hole has been dug, mix in peat moss into the soil removed and place 2 to 3 inches back into the hole. Once that is done, remove the plant from its container and place in the hole. Test the height of the plant. If the plant sits below soil level, add additional soil. If the plant is level with the surrounding soil, then continue with the planting process by filling in.
Once the plant is in the hole, gently tap down and water in. Add an organic mulch to the top to increase acidity of the soil and control weeds.
Bog rosemary spreads by rhizomes so plant in areas that have ample space for this type of growth habit.
One cautionary tale of this plant is the fact that it is not edible. While the name implies a culinary aspect, this only comes from the leaf shape and ever part of the plant is poisonous, so handle with caution.
Source: Weekend Gardener
