Slick system but I’m stripping lots of screw heads or they’re not countersinking enough to install the color matched plug. I’ve tried pre-drilling, tried everything the website says so it seems that the weak link is my impact driver (Rigid 18V). Will a better driver or another type of tool make this job go easier?

My wife and I recently purchased a new split foyer home which has a sliding glass door to nowhere in the living room – it opens to a 5′ drop into the front yard landscaping rather than a deck or balcony. Our homeowner’s insurance company has assessed this as a liability hazard, and wants it rectified some time in the next month or they’ll cancel our policy. I’m in the process of going back and forth with our insurance agent over the exact wording of the company policy in the hope that simply securing the door with a keyed deadbolt or even a lag screw sunk into the track such that it can’t be opened would be sufficient, but it’s looking like I may have to install some type of security railing to the siding outside of the door.

There’s currently vinyl shutters on both sides of the door and vinyl siding above and below. Assuming I got a piece of pre-fab vinyl fencing or something of that nature to use, what would be the best way of securing it to the side of the house?

Was typing a post and badly misspelled the word “vehicle”. I typed it as “vechilce”.

The spelling corrector suggested “lovechild” as what I had meant to type. :rolleyes:

I’ve had a Echo DHC-3000 battery hedge trimmer for years. It’s pretty tired and I’d like to replace it. Guess it wasn’t very popular with the trade and Echo no longer makes it.
If you’re not familier with it, it’s a 30″(?) blade and uses a 12 volt battery similar to a motorcycle battery that goes in a knapsack style carrier.
Does anyone make something comparable?

We need new front and back doors on the cottage we bought a few months ago. I’ve had two different companies come out to give us a quote for Plastpro fiberglass doors.

The first guy gave us a quote for just doors–using the existing frames (which I guess are in good enough condition to keep).

The second guy gave us a quote for the same doors–but with Plastpros “PF Frames(tm)”–a poly-fiber integrated frame. (Here’s some info on those: http://www.plastproinc.com/_pdfs/2012%20PF%20Frame.pdf)

The door/frame combo is more than twice as costly–but interestingly, the two quotes are within $300 of each other–primarily I think because there’s less labor involved in installing the door/frame unit? (Two guys for two days for the door-only install vs one guy for one day for the door/PF frame install.)

Not knowing anything more about it, it seems logical to assume that the door/PF frame combo is the way to go, isn’t it–especially since the final cost is fairly close? Wouldn’t that make for a much better/tighter fit than putting JUST a new door into an existing frame?

Or is this one of those counter intuitive things? :confused:

My water pressure has slowly gotten very very low. I have adjusted the cut in pressure on the pressure switch a few times over last couple years and this has temporarily solved the problem. But now the nut on the switch is turned all the way out so that I cannot adjust the cut-in any more.

Do I need just a new switch, or new tank as well. When the pump does cut in the water pressure is good (~45 psi) but it just goes too low before cutting in again (<10 psi).

Symptoms I’ve read for leak in pressure tank bladder don’t seem to really apply. The pump is not constantly cycling etc.

Thanks for your help,
James
(first time poster)

I’ve been working with a Ryobi trimmer and had to buy a new carb since their was no kit available (No name on the carb even)Does anyone happen to know what the initial setting should be.Carb came with screws all the way in.

Hello and thanks in advance for any advice,

I have a really small sump pit, probably about 10-12 inches. Probably installed when the house was built in 1976. It fits one sump pump and one sump pump only. When it rains really hard the drain tile pours into the pit pretty fast and the pit is too small to install a batter back up. I get pretty nervous about the potential to lose power during a hard rain.

Has any used a power inverter with a battery bank to power a pump in case you lose power?

I contacted a plumber and got a quote for $1,500 to remove the old pit and install a new one. I thought that was a little out of line……maybe I’m wrong. I think I can do it myself but wouldnt want to damage the drain tile that is snubbed in there.

Thoughts? Comments? Snide Remarks? Easy Solutions?

Thanks

I have one of those crappy $10 pump sprayers, a year or 2 old. I am using it to spray bleach outdoor cleaner on my composite decking (the cleaner works great). It has started leaking pressure once pumped up. The o-ring is has some cracks in it. Almost done with the job, dont wanna buy a new sprayer. Is there something I can put on the o-ring so it maintains a seal, like some kind of grease etc?