Category Archives: Do it yourself

Porch support replacement footing question

By kick824

Hello, I am trying to update my porch posts by swapping the old wrought iron columns for 4X4 posts and railing. This is on a 1950’s ranch house with a concrete slab porch. The columns are load bearing, and the issue I am having is the old iron supports were cemented in with the slab. The new larger 4×4’s when mocked up will fall half way on the edge of the slab and half way onto the dirt. Just trying to figure out what the best way to go about footing these will be. I am thinking the only option I have will be to cut the slab out around the columns and pour new footings using sonotubes? Just hoping someone has a better solution or some advice as I have never cut concrete before.

Source: DoItYourself.com

connecting multiple t5 tubes to a single ballast…

By wellhellothere

Hello,

I’m trying to make some sculptural “lamps” using skinny copper tubing and fluorescent t5 tubes. The small size of the tubes is restricting for even the smallest ballasts that are commercially available. Because of this I’ve been buying the smallest under cabinet lights that I can find and cutting them apart to steal their tiny circuit board-esque ballasts. These fit my application and running one light is no big deal, but I’m running into problems when I try to hook up 2 lights to one ballast.

The ballast that I’m using is from a 24W fixture, running a 24W bulb. My thinking was that I could run a 13W bulb and 8W bulb using this ballast because together they total less than 24 watts. Is this assumption correct, and I can use this ballast but I’m just wiring it wrong? Or, do I need a completely different ballast?

I’ve tried 2 different wiring setups based on schematics I found online (though, mine isn’t color-coordinated so I am guessing as far as which wire is which) On the first attempt one light worked and the other burned out instantly. On the second attempt (which felt accurate to the schematic) Neither light turned on.

After that I tried to connect the 2 different sets of Out’s (what I thought were out’s) from the ballast to the 2 lights, and then “chain” the 2 lights together in the middle. Both lights turned on this time but flickered strangely and made a really bad sound. Is their a chance that this is correct, but maybe the connections were poor?

Sorry for the essay. Any help that anyone can give me will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Source: DoItYourself.com

Replace a refaced cabinet for OTR microwave

By kidbat

Hello, I would like to replace an 18″ upper cabinet, which is over the stove, with a 12″ high cabinet. I would like the additional clearance for an over the range microwave which I’d like to install this summer. I’m trying to decide the best way to replace the cabinet which I had refaced with veneer and new doors about 10 years ago. I have a few questions.

1) I was planning on replacing the 18″ cabinet with a 12″ cabinet. Someone asked me if I could modify the existing cabinet in place, and just get replacement doors. I never thought of doing this since it seems to be a mess and a lot of work to make it work. However, I’m wondering has anyone done this, or do pros ever do this for this type of situation?

2) Assuming I replace with a 12″ cabinet, I’ll need to remove the existing cabinet which was refaced with veneer. The veneer straddles the stiles from the cabinet I’m replacing and the adjacent cabinets on left and right side. I was thinking that I might be able to salvage the veneer by peel/prying it from the cabinet I’m removing and slide the cabinet down. I would then slide the new cabinet in place and reglue the veneer (I should have enough left over veneer from one I originally refaced that I can use to cover the rest of the new cabinet). Is it possible to peel up refacing veneer and reglue? Is my replacement idea just stupid? Are there any suggestions to make this work?

3) I need to get some shorter cabinet doors either way to match my other doors. The doors were bought from Quality Doors through Home Depot. I’ve been told that Quality Doors went out of business??? Did someone buy their business? Could someone suggest a manufacturer that makes similar style door that Quality Doors made. I have clear coat maple shaker style doors right now.

If anyone has any advice for replacing (or salvaging) my cabinet for over the range, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

Source: DoItYourself.com

Basement living room (Lighting+Outlet)

By Whiffen

I live in a very old home with a very dated electrical system that looks like it was thrown together willy-nilly. Multiple rooms are chained together on the same breaker and that often causes the breaker to trip. I assume it’s like that because there are no more breaker positions left and they didn’t want to replace the ancient main box.

I’ve framed a new room in the basement and am beginning the electrical work.

I don’t want any more of the already strained breakers incorporated in the new room and the new room would require 3 more spaces for lighting and outlets. So I will be installing either a new main breaker or a breaker lug. The breaker lug may be better suited to me for convenience and cost.

I believe I require a double pole breaker to branch off the main breaker to the new lug. However I’m unsure what breakers in the current panel would be ideal for me to move into the new box in order to clear up the spaces required for that breaker. For example; Can I move the drier out of the main box, plug in the required breaker to sufficiently feed the new panel in it’s place and then plug the displaced drier into the new panel, along with the other 3 breakers for the new room? I’ve heard it’s not ideal to run a drier off a lug but I’d like to make sure it’s not against code or unadvised.

(Potential loads in the new box; Washer [15A], Drier[30A], 3 Pot lights[~3A], 2 recessed lights [~2A], many electronics {51″ Plasma, Modem, Router, 3 27″ Screens, High end computer [10A], Speaker system}

Assuming a 100A breaker on the crazy high end to feed the lug, w/ 2gauge cable perhaps and maybe a 20A AFCI breaker would be best suited to such electronics for the room.

I don’t really have an all to specific question or issue. It’s just that it’s my first time doing this and while I understand the associated risks and know how to wire junctions, lights and outlets, etc… I’ve never installed a lug before and would like to make sure it’s done properly and safely.

Hopefully my picture can help illustrate the situation more clearly and if anyone has any tips and pointers that would be very much appreciated, thank you!

http://i.imgur.com/q8BN4hv.jpg
(The basic layout is correct but some of the labeled information is wrong.)

Source: DoItYourself.com

Wiring a new 240V compressor with a switch

By T-W-X

Long story short, new compressor, 1PH 240V 15A. Compressor will be outside. I want to put a pilot switch to control the power to the receptacle for it so that it’s not left on when not needed.

I only found a couple of pilot switches that are double-pole…

Leviton 1222-PLR 120V 20A double pole

Leviton 3032-PLR 120V 30A double pole

I assume that neither of these is adequate. I would love to be wrong though, even if it’s the 3032 as a more expensive unit.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Source: DoItYourself.com

Help Identifying Capacitors

By konzekqtiv

Hello,
I was hoping that someone could help me identify what kind of capacitors I need to buy to replace the ones that I have. There are numbers and letters on them but I don’t quite understand what they mean (I searched on google but I don’t get all of the terms since I never studied this stuff) anyway, the numbers and letters are:

9N
220
25A

On one capacitor and:

FP
9XAF
221
6.1

On another capacitor. These are from a computer motherboard that got shorted due to a powersurge. I’m hoping I can fix it by replacing the capacitors since I believe the motherboard is not getting enough power (makes a ticking noise when plugged in). Thanks so much.

Source: DoItYourself.com

Photo software storage for catergorizing and retreival

By Concretemasonry

I have 5,000 to 10,000 photos on my desktop and need a good software program for organization (easy to do), but for retrieval based on keywords in a separate entry.

I previously uses a Jasc program along with a companion program for sorting and retrieving. Unfortunately, Corel bought Jasc and have had a system that has deteriorated, especially after a crash the eliminated some programs. The current Corel program is near impossible to use for my needs (as I think I have discovered).

Ideally, I would like to keep my photos in albums, which is easy, but many of the photos could be in multiple albums compounding the number of possible photos cross-referenced especially with a growing number of photos.

I do restoration of photos and need to both originals and modified versions. I also an into genealogy and have over 10,000 people in my family trees with whatever photos I have or want to collect in the future.

I would like to have a photo file (could contain photos in defined albums), but also the ability to search using keywords attached to each photo. The keyword could be a date, year, name, individual, location, occasion, holiday, subject, or a multiple of those items.

I am not looking for cheap or free program, but an established one that has the flexibility to get photos easily and work with a good photo editing and restoring software program.

I know this is out there in some form, but have not stumbled on it.

Dick

Source: DoItYourself.com

ac compresser unit not working properly

By ccasino

outside condesnser a/c unit will not turn on unless you take a screw driver to the contactor(contact switch).then fan will spin,condenser will engage.pull screw driver away it will stop,5 min later it will all come on and cool just fine and cycle just fine.both run and start capacitor changed a yr ago.Why such a slow start when the ac hadn’t been used in a while?

Source: DoItYourself.com