On the surface, it sounds like the silliest kind of publicity stunt: choosing the new chef for a big-time hotel’s flagship restaurant by staging a reality TV contest. But this is Los Angeles. And this decades-old hotel on the edge of Beverly Hills is a leader in the entertainment industry (some 80 percent of all press junkets anywhere are held in the hotel, according to the publicist). And Four Seasons is a brand that’s determined to shed its traditional, straitlaced image. So that’s exactly what happened.

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