Tag Archives: GPM

1.5hp flotec pump HELP! turns on then off then flips breaker

By vv132

HEY
I live in NJ, we got a Thermoplastic Sprinkler Pump 1.5 HP
installed. When the pump is on and working we get about 65-70psi(which is way to high as the box says 47 max psi), but most of the time the pump will run for a little bit then flip the breaker and stop. Or When it turns on, it turns on then off, on, and off then the breaker goes flips and it stops(making it impossible to run on a schedule). Pump is running on 115v on a 20 amp breaker. (We are upgrading the breaker to 30 on Sunday)

We have 7 zones on the house and about 26-28 sprinkler heads/sprays. We get water from the town/city at about 30-35 psi, but then the tubing goes from smaller tubing(guessing half inch) to 1 inch tubing for all the sprinkler lines so we need a pump. WE had a pump bunch of years ago that worked for a while but was then removed. Trying to get this to work so everything works perfect as I replaced/upgraded most of the heads and this is the last thing needing fixing. Any ideas on how to fix this or what direction to take? I dont know how much GPM I need. Tech support on flotec stopped helping me right away after i didn’t know how much GPM we require.

Thanks
V.V.

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Source: DoItYourself.com

help with sprinkler pump !

By vv132

HEY
I live in NJ, we got a Thermoplastic Spinkler Pump 1.5 HP
installed. When the pump is on and working we get about 65-70psi(which is way to high as the box says 47 max psi), but most of the time the pump will run for a little bit then flip the breaker and stop. Or When it turns on, it turns on then off, on, and off then the breaker goes flips and it stops(making it impossible to run on a schedule). Pump is running on 115v on a 20 amp breaker. (We are upgrading the breaker to 30 on Sunday)

We have 7 zones on the house and about 26-28 sprinkler heads/sprays. We get water from the town/city at about 30-35 psi, but then the tubing goes from smaller tubing(guessing half inch) to 1 inch tubing for all the sprinkler lines so we need a pump. WE had a pump bunch of years ago that worked for a while but was then removed. Trying to get this to work so everything works perfect as I replaced/upgraded most of the heads and this is the last thing needing fixing. Any ideas on how to fix this or what direction to take? I dont know how much GPM I need. Tech support on flotec stopped helping me right away after i didn’t know how much GPM we require.

Thanks
V.V.

…read more

Source: DoItYourself.com

Need to upgrade my ancient Galv tank

By sbeausol

I’m one year into a new house we bought that was built in 1971. Water is served from a well that I don’t have a lot of specific info on. In 2010, there was a 1/2 HP Goulds submersible pump installed set at 300′ using 1″ poly. I spoke to the installer and the only extra detail they could give me was that when they shocked the well and flushed it all day, they didn’t come close to running out of water. When someone is taking a shower and nothing else, the pump kicks in at what looks like 30 PSI and runs for 45sec to hit 60 PSI. During a typical shower the pump kicks in 2-3 times.

Inside the house I have a harvard mark 10 tank that is as tall as I am ~70″, and the pump installer tells me it is an 80 gallon galvanized tank, likely installed in 1971. It is in need of replacement soon. I’m told I can replace the current tank with a 20-30 gallon amtrol tank which would suitably replace the current tank. The house is a 3 bed 2 bath with two adults and a child right now. If things work out, we will hopefully have a second child in the coming years. I have plans to remodel the master bath, and the wife has mentioned the possibility of adding a few shower heads in the new bathroom. Here are my questions:

1) Using the methods for estimating demand, it seems like my current demand would be about 9-10 GPM. Should we go with an extra shower head that load could move up to somewhere around 12-15 GPM. With my current pump, can I meet that demand moving to a 20-30 gallon Amtrol?

2) Based on my current demand, can a CSV work for me with the recommended 4.4 Gal tank? It seems like the CSV system is limited by the output of the pump in the well, or alternatively would require a larger than 4.4 gallon tank?

From: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/wells-sump-pumps-septic-sewage-systems/493458-need-upgrade-my-ancient-galv-tank.html

Water pressure diminishes after 15 minutes

By Dewey37

Hi

First timer here. I would like to ask a question regarding pressure tank and well pump.

The problem consists with my irrigation system losing water pressure after 1 zone operating. The house has plenty of water through the faucet and shower heads. Pressure is never lost through these. Once I use the irrigation system,(no other water being used) I can only go through 1 zone (regardless of zone activated) for 15 minutes and the tank drains quickly and starts the pump on to fill back up. Once this happens the water slowly bubbles out of sprinkler heads. The pump continues to fill the tank but with no pressure.

I’ve done the test of the pressure tank to eliminate a tank problem by shutting off pump power and draining the tank and checking air pressure for bladder problem. Tank did drain completely and air pressure was at 28psi (I have a 30 to 50 pressure switch). The pressure switch cuts-in at 30 and cuts out at 60psi. I’m not sure that’s the problem since it should only have a 20psi differential.

My equipment:

Well Rite 119 gallon blue pressure tank (installed in 2004)
Myers 3/4 hp 2 wire deep submersible pump (installed 2004 with tank)
D square 30 to 50 pressure switch(same as above)

Don’t know if this will help but it takes 25 minutes to refill tank from cut-in to cut-out. I know the irrigation uses more GPM than what the shower or faucets will use but I’ve never had a problem with running water from sprinklers for 2 hours straight last year.

I know all the sprinkler zones work as I tested each one separately this morning. No leaks in piping at all.

Please help

Source: DoItYourself.com